
Garments 

for 

Girls 

Celestin^ Leontine 
Schmit 



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GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



BY 
CEI.ESTINE LEONTINE SCHMIT 

Associate Professor of Home Ecokomics, 
University of Wisconsin 



ILLUSTRATED 

WITH PHOTOGRAPHS 

AND DIAGRAMS 




NEW YORK 

THE CENTURY CO. 

1919 



Copyright, 1919, by 
The Centt;ry Co. 



MM -3 1919 



^^V _. . _ . tv ^ 1^ i-\ 






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TO 

MADAME A. GUERRE 

AND TO 

HER DAUGHTER, 

MADAME Le COMTE 

Professors in the "Ecoles Professionelles' 

and the University des Annales of Paris, 

my former teachers, from whom I 

drew much inspiration and 

enthusiasm for 

this work 



PREFACE 

So far sewing has not received the attention 
which it should in the school curriculum, and yet 
no other subject helps more to cultivate thrift, 
order, and economy. With the introduction of 
the straight line drafting, one finds that since 
1886 the teaching of sewing, cutting, and gar- 
ment making has found an equal place with 
academic studies in most of the girls' schools 
in European countries. The value of this 
teaching on the economic, social, and moral 
conditions of these countries has been well rec- 
ognized. 

In addition it will offer an opportunity for 
close correlation with other subjects in the 
school curriculum, such as drawing, arithmetic, 
English, etc. It enables the instructor to give 
more class instruction than has heretofore been 
possible in the teaching of sewing. 

The subject matter includes the sewing, the 
cutting, and the making of the most necessary 
garments in any girl's wardrobe. 

Each lesson is a complete unit. In the selec- 
tion of the work care has been taken to make 

ix 



X PREFACE 

sure that the lesson of one day reviews that of 
the previous day and prepares for the one in 
advance. To acquire skill, repetition is neces- 
sary. This has been kept in mind and the 
writer has endeavored to make the repetition 
less tiresome and more profitable by giving it 
variety. Each lesson is followed by such ques- 
tions as will create thought and discussion on 
the part of the members of the class, and also 
will give suggestions to the teacher. 

Special attention has been given to the intro- 
duction of all possible short cuts in the con- 
struction of garments, without sacrificing the 
standards of work. Only such garments as are 
used in the trade at the present time are pre- 
sented in this text. 

Every proljlem and garment described has 
been fully worked out in the vocational schools 
in Wisconsin under the personal direction of 
the writer. 

The aim of the text is to inspire a love for the 
work. Long experience has proved that a 
growing interest in handiwork can be developed 
in almost every girl, provided that the efforts 
of the student are rewarded with adequate re- 
sults. 

The aid rendered in the organization and 
preparation of this text by Dean H. L. Russell 



PREFACE xi 

of the University of Wisconsin is gratefully 
acknowledged by the author. 

C. L. S. 
University of Wisconsin, 
Madison, July, 1918. 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I Application of Hand and Machine 

Sewing 3 

II Garment Construction 17 

III Sewing Apron 27 

IV Plain Kimono Nightgown .... 37 
V Kimono Apron with Tucks .... 48 

VI Kimono Nightgown with Yoke . . 61 

VII Kimono Nightgown with Tucks and 

Hand-Made Trimming 71 

VIII Work or Cooking Apron 78 

IX Gores 87 

X Cooking or Serving Apron .... 92 

XI Petticoats 104 

XII Drawers 124 

XIII Skirts 143 

XIV Middy Blouse 167 

XV Shirt Waist 200 

XVI Corset Cover 221 

X /II Envelope Chemise 234 



FOREWORD 

Until recent years the art of cutting women's 
and children's garments without the aid of com- 
mercial patterns has, in this country, been 
known only to dressmakers and tailors. It is 
possible, however, for any one to master the 
definite yet simple underlying principles which 
the system of drafting here presents and thus 
be able to make in a very short time a perfect 
fitting skirt and waist pattern. These patterns 
may be readily used as a base upon which all 
the patterns needed for other garments can be 
developed. This method originated with Mme. 
A. Guerre and is extensively used in the public 
schools of France. Through its use, the ex- 
pense and wastefulness of commercial patterns 
may be eliminated. 

The method is based on geometric principles 
and is the result of years of careful and patient 
observations both in the class room and in prac- 
tice in the home. It is clear, precise, and leaves 
nothing to hazard. 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

CHAPTER I 

APPLICATION OF HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 

In the sewing outfit illustrated here, all the 
stitches and many of the seams with which pu- 
pils are already familiar are reviewed. 

^'A place for everything and everything in 
its place'' is demonstrated here. 




Fig. 1. — Sewing Outfit 

A, Sewing bag; B, spool holder with scissors and thimble; 
C, needle book; D, pin cushion 

3 



4 GARMENTS FOK GIRLS 

This sewing outfit includes: 

1. Sewing bag. 

2. Needlebook. 

3. Spool holder with a place for scissors, 
thimble, stiletto, bodkin, emery bag, etc. 

4. Pincushion. 

To make the outfit 2/3 of a yard of 36'' ma- 
terial is required. 

Sewing Bag 



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Fig. 2. — Sewing Outfit 

I, Sewing bag; II, bottom of sewing bag, with divisons 
marked; III, needle book: IV, spool holder; V, top part of 
spool holder; VI, pin cushion. 

A, Turned hem; B, casing; C, hem; D, folded over part and 
divisions for pockets. 



HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 5 

Required Material 

1 piece of material 14" by 36", 2 pieces 
of material 5" by 5", 2 pieces of card- 
board 4" by 4" in diameter, 2 yards of 
cord or ribbon, 1 spool of cotton or silk 
thread, 1 skein of embroidery cotton, 
sewing needle No. 9, bodkin, fine steel 
pins. 

To Make the Bag 

1. Cut a piece of material 14" by 36". 

2. If there is a selvage on the sides turn the 
material only once ; if there is a cut edge, turn 
the material l^" and fold this over 14". The 
raw edge may extend a little beyond the turned 
edge. 

3. Join together with an overhanding seam. 

4. Press the seam open and cut away the raw 
edges, if any, from under the turn. 

5. Turn, pin or baste a V^" hem on the 
lower cut end of the material and stitch this by 
machine, or finish with either a hemming or a 
fancy stitch. 

6. Fold over 1%'' for the upper hem ; crease 
this well. 

7. Put in a basting thread 1" below the 
folded edge. 

8. Leave %" space below the basting or IV2" 
from the folded edge of tne hem. 



6 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

9. Measure 1^2^ down from the top. Turn 
the material wrong side out and baste down. 

10. Divide the bag into halves with colored 
thread, then into four, and then into eight parts. 

11. Stitch by machine or work over these di- 
visions with a running or fancy stitch, to form 
the inside pockets. 

12. Gather by machine, or run two rows of 
very fine stitches %'' apart at the lowest edge. 

13. For the bottom, cut two round pieces of 
cardboard 4" by 4'' in diameter. Cut the ma- 
terial V larger than the cardboard and make 
a fine running stitch around the edge. 

14. Draw the thread up a little and insert the 
cardboard; then draw the thread so that the 
material fits over the cardboard tightly and 
smoothly, holding it in place by criss-crossing 
several threads. 

15. Make both the bottom pieces in the same 
way and join or baste them together. 

16. Divide the bottom edge into eight sections 
with colored thread. 

17. Pin the sections of the bottom to the sec- 
tions of the bag; draw up these threads and 
overhand the top to the bottom. 

18. Take out a few stitches in the casing of 
the hem of the seam and opposite this make an 
eyelet. Two cords should be used. These 



HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 7 

should be drawn through in opposite directions. 
(See Fig. 1 A, Fig. 2 I, VI.) 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Cut the bag. 

2. JMake a i/4" turn along the cut edge. Crease or 
pull a thread. 

3. For the hem and the casing measure ll^'' from 
the turned edge. 

4. For the casing measure 1" from the turned 
edge. Crease or pull a thread. 

5. Overhand the selvages together. 

6. Pin the hem down and run one shirring thread 
for the casing. 

7. Make the hem. 

8. Make a V2" hem on the other side of the bag. 
Hem this by hand or stitch it by machine. 

9. Measure 5" from this hem for the pockets. 
Crease this firmly or draw a thread. 

10. Divide the bag into eight parts. Mark these 
divisions with a colored thread. 

11. Run two gathering threads %" apart very close 
to the bottom edge. These gathering threads may be 
put in by machine. 

12. Prepare the two parts for the bottom of the 
bag. 

13. Divide each part into eight sections. Where 
the parts are divided into sections sew them together 
with an overhand stitch. 

14. Pin the sections of the bag to the sections of 
the bottom. 



8 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

15. Draw up the gathering thread of the bag to fit 
the bottom of the bag. 

16. Sew the upper part of the bag to the bottom 
with an overhand stitch. 

17. Make a running or a fancy stitch over the divi- 
sions in the bag, or stitch these by machine. 

18. Make two cords for the bag. 

19. Run the cords in the casing of the bag. 

20. Finish the cords with a knot or tassel. 

QUESTIONS 

1. What material has been used for making the 
bag? 

2. What other material could be used ? 

3. Name the different kinds of bags and their 
uses. 

4. What material is used in the different types ? 

5. What bags ^re especially used at the present 
time ? Why ? 

6. What stitches were used in the making of the 
bag? 

7. What seams were used in the making of the 
bag? 

Needle Book 

Required Material 

2 pieces of cardboard 3'' by 5", 2 pieces 
of cloth 5'' by 7'% 1 piece of cloth 3'' by 
7", 2 pieces of white cotton flannel 3" 
by 5", thread, needle, and pins as for 
the sewing bag. 



HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 9 

Cut through the center two pieces of card- 
board 3'' by 5'', to secure four pieces 3" by 2i/2''- 

Cut two pieces of covering 5'' by 7". 

Lay the material over one of these cardboard 
pieces, being careful to have the warp and the 
woof at right angles. Turn the edges over, mi- 
ter the corners, and hold the material in place 
with pins. Then baste the corners and hold 
the edges down by criss-crossing threads from 
side to side. 

Repeat this process on the other cardboard, 
leaving i/^/' space in the center. 

Before applying the inside piece, take a 3'' by 
7'' piece, turn the raw edge over, and baste this 
to the middle. Fold the edges over the card- 
board, pin both the covers together, and join 
them with an overhand stitch. Hold the cen- 
ters in place with 2 rows of running stitches 
%" apart. 

Cut 2 pieces of white flannel 3" by 5"; pink 
the edges or finish these with a blanket stitch 
and fasten the pieces to the cover. (See Fig. 
1 C, Fig. 2 III.) 

Spool Holder 

Required Material 

6 pieces of cardboard 5'' long, 1'' wide 
at the top and 1%'' wide at the bottom; 



10 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

6 pieces of material 7" by 3^'', 1 piece 
of cardboard 3'' by 1%'', 1 piece of 
cardboard 1" by 2'', 1 piece of material 
5" by 2i/o", 1 piece of material 2'' by 3'% 
needles and thread as for previous ar- 
ticles, and 5 spools of thread of various 
numbers to put in the holder. 
To make the spool holder, cut six pieces of 
material 7'' by 'Sy^', and cover the six card- 
boards by following the directions given for the 
needle book. The middle piece has an addi- 
tional pocket on the top to hold the scissors. 
This is covered on the piece of cardboard 3'' 
long V wide at the bottom and 1%'' wide at 
the top. The top is cut to a point. 

Pin each top piece to the bottom one and then 
join the three pieces together with an overhand 
stitch, a cross-stitch, or any other fancy 
stitch. 

Cover a piece of cardboard 1" wide by 2'' long 
with the same material and fasten it to the up- 
per corner. 

A number of spools of cotton and silk thread 
are laced to the holder. The spaces between the 
lacing on the top cover may be used as holders 
for the glove darner, stiletto, bodkin, pencil, etc. 
(See Fig. 1 B, Fig. 2 IV, V.) 



HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 11 
Pin Cushion 

Required Material 

2 pieces of material 3%'' in diameter, 
bran, sawdust, or vegetable hair for fill- 
ing, needles and thread as for previous 
articles. 

If the material used is not strong, line it with 
white muslin. Be careful to see that the warp 
and woof of both the outer and the inner ma- 
terial run in the same direction. 

Run a basting thread up and down, and from 
side to side to divide the circular pieces into 
four equal sections. 

Join the parts on the wrong side with a com- 
bination stitch, leaving an opening of 1%''. 
Baste the raw edge down all around the open- 
ing. 

Press the seam open and turn the cushion 
right side out. Fill it with curled or vegetable 
hair, sawdust, or bran. 

After the cushion is well filled, overhand the 
opening. 

Make a fancy stitch over the seam. 

With a strong thread or embroidery cotton, 
divide the cushion into eight parts. Draw up 
the dividing threads so that the cushion looks 
like a pumpkin. (See Fig. 1 D, Fig. 2 II.) 



12 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Holder and Cover 

Holders are used in every food class. There 
should be at least two sets for each student : A 
set consists of two. A holder may be made of 
three thicknesses of outing flannel or of any 
remnants which may be on hand. Very often 
the holder is slipped into a cover. (See Figs. 
3 and 4.) 




Fig. 3. — Holder 



HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 13 

Required Material 

Three thicknesses of material, 5')4" 
square, No. 70 white thread for ma- 
chine stitching, 1 spool of coarse soft 
crochet cotton, No. 6 crewel needle, a 
piece of muslin 13" by 6'' for the cover, 
% of a yard of tape, or instead of the 
tape a strip of cloth 1%'' wide and % 
yard long. 
The holder is a short problem and affords the 

teacher a good opportunity for testing the skill 

of new students. 

It may serve as a first problem for machine 

stitching. The short raw edges afford a good 

opportunity for a review of the blanket stitch 

and the buttonhole stitch. 



Making the Holder 

1. Cut 3 or 4 pieces of material 5%" by 51/2'' 
for each holder. 

2. Baste or pin these together carefully. 

3. Stitch 2 or 3 rows evenly all around the 
4 sides about 14'' apart. Be careful to make 
good square corners and to have a perfect ten- 
sion. 

4. Finish two of the raw edges with a but- 
tonhole stitch. 



14 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

5. Finish the other two edges with a blanket 
stitch. Use coarse soft crochet or embroidery 
cotton. The stitches may be %" apart and 
3/16'' deep. 

Cover 
Cut a piece of muslin 13" long and 6'' wide. 

Making the Cover 

1. On each short end, crease a %" hem 
firmly and stitch it by machine. 

2. Fold the holder crosswise through the 
center and mark this center well with a 
crease. 

3. From each side of the center, measure 
over 5%'' and mark this point with a pin. 

4. Unfold the holder and place each marked 
end directly over the line which marks the mid- 
dle of the holder. The hems will slightly over- 
lap. (See Fig. 4 II.) 

5. Cut a piece of tape Y/' or W wide and 
27'' long and stitch this securely to one corner of 
the holder. If tape cannot be obtained read- 
ily, it may be made out of strips of cloth. The 
tape may be made of double material or a 
small hem may be made on each side. (Fig. 4 
III.) 

6. Stitch the holder together with a plain 
seam %" below each cut edge. 



HAND AND MACHINE SEWING 15 

7. Open each seam by pressing it between 
the thumb and the forefinger. 

8. Turn the cover inside out. Pull out each 
corner with a pin. Crease the seams very flat. 

9. Press the cover and the holder. 

10. Make in the end of the tape a buttonhole 




Fig. 4. — Method of Cutting Holdee and Cover 

I, Cover cut; II, wrong side of folded cover; ID, right side of 
folded cover; IV, holder 



16 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

to fit the button which is sewed on the band of 
the cooking apron. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Cut the material. 

2. Fold the hem. 

3. Stitch the hem. 

4. Fold the cover to make a square with the flaps 
inside. 

5. Make the tape. 

6. Sew on the tape. 

7. Stitch the raw edge. 

8. Open the seam. 

9. Turn inside out. 

10. Crease and press. 

11. Make a buttonhole in the end of the tape. 

QUESTIONS 

1. What are holders used for? 

2. Why do we make covers for the holders? 

3. What material may be used for the holders? 

4. What material may be used for the covers? 

5. What stitches do you use around the edges of 
the holders? 

6. Name some other places where these stitches 
are used? 

7. What seams do you use in the covers ? 

8. Enumerate the steps you have taken to make 
the covers. 



CHAPTEE II 

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 

Before beginning to make any kind of gar- 
ment it is necessary to analyze it and consider : 

1. The required measurements. 

2. The different parts of which it is com- 
posed. 

3. Suitable material with regard to (a) wear- 
ing qualities, (b) advantage of cutting, (c) ex- 
penditure, (d) ease of laundering, (e) ease of 
repairing or making over. 

4. The preparation of the material for draft- 
ing and cutting. 

5. The drafting of the pattern. 

6. The laying of the pattern on the material. 

7. The cutting out. 

8. The construction of the garment. 

9. The trimming. 

10. The pressing. 

11. The cost. 

12. The comparison of the finished garment 
with similar ready-made garments as to quality 
of materia], workmanship, price, fit, and general 
appearance. 

17 



18 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Cutting and Making of Garments 

General Rule for the Construction of Garments 

Under garment construction is included the 
making of a suitable garment for an individual. 

This very important part of needlework in- 
cludes the study and analysis of the garment to 
be made : 

1. The taking of measurements. 

2. The drafting of the pattern. 

3. The cutting of the garment according to 
the pattern. 

4. The joining of the different parts. 

5. The fitting and necessary alterations. 

6. The sewing and finishing of the garment. 

7. The application of trimmings, if these are 
used. 

8. The pressing. 

Taking of Measurements 

For the construction of any garment, no mat- 
ter how simple, certain definite measurements 
are necessary. The taking of measurements is 
a very important procedure, because the fit and 
the elegance of the garment depend wholly upon 
the accuracy with which these measurements 
are taken. For loose, flowing garments, com- 
paratively few measurements are required. 
For tight-fitting garments, more measurements 



GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 



19 



are necessary, because of the great accuracy 
with which each part must be adjusted. A 




Figs. 5 and 6. 
Measurements: 



-Taking Measurements 



Waist Measurements: 1, 
Length of back; 2, width 
across back ; 3, bust measure ; 
4, underarm seam; 5, width 
across chest; 6, length of 
front; 7, waist measure; 8, 



neck measure; 9, length of 
sleeve. 

Skirt Measurements: 1, 
Waist measure; a, hip meas- 
ure taken 7" below the waist 
line; b, front length; c, side 
length; d, back length. 



20 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



close-fitting waist always requires more meas- 
urements than a skirt. Measurements for a 
tight-fitting waist should always be taken over 
a corset cover. A waist is often ill-fitting, and 
if the measurements are taken over it, they are 
apt to be misleading. The measurements neces- 
sary for each garment will be given in each 
chapter, but the general principles give direc- 
tions as to what measurements should be taken. 




Fi^. 7 

DifTerence of various commercial patterns and drafted patterns 
A. Drafted pattern. B. Commercial pattern. 

Braffwff and Placing of Patterns 

The student is shown how to draft patterns 



GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 21 

for herself and thus be relieved from the ex- 
pense of purchasing commercial patterns for 
the various garments hereinafter described. 
The pattern of many of the garments illustrated 
in this text are drafted directly on the cloth. 
This saves a great deal of time and i)aper. The 
cost of the commercial patterns used for the gar- 
ments described in this work, figuring each at 
15 cents, would be approximately $2. 

If the pattern is drafted on paper, cut out the 
pattern very carefully on the traced lines and 
cut just as many parts as are required to make 
the cloth garment. Mark each piece with its 
full name on the right side. Cutting all of the 
pieces and marking them on the right side will 
result in economical use of cloth and aid in 
avoiding mistakes which are likely to occur, es- 
pecially if the material has a nap or a right and 
a wrong side. 

The material must be unfolded and stretched 
evenly on a large table. Fasten the material 
with thumb tacks, keeping the warp and the 
woof at right angles. 

If the material is not even, it is well to pull 
the short corner. There is no definite rule for 
placing the patterns on the cloth. Place all the 
large pieces first and as economically as pos- 
sible. Place the smaller pieces next. Be care- 
ful to keep in mind the right and the wrong 



22 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

side, the up and down, the stripes, the plaids, 
etc. The largest pieces should always be cut 
first. They should be placed with the widest 
part near the cut end of the cloth. 

If a two or three piece suit is required, be 
sure to place all the parts of the pattern on the 
cloth before beginning to cut them out. This 
may save a great do^l of trouble and inconveni- 
ence later on. The parts of the pattern should 
be placed on the material with the construction 
lines running in the same direction as the warp 
and the woof. The length of the garment ordi- 
narily follows the length of the selvage. 

Cutting the Material 

The cutting shears of By^" to 9'' should be 
well sharpened. Cut with an even long stroke 
to the end of the si i ears to avoid notches in the 
cloth. As patterns are drafted according to 
the measurements taken, there will be no allow- 
ance for seams or fullness. After the parts of 
the pattern are pinned exactly and securely to 
the material, trace all around them with a 
tracing wheel, tailors' chalk, or tailors' basting 
thread. Which of these is used will depend 
upon the material. Then cut the goods, allow- 
ing for seams, hems, and fullness according to 
the garment and the cloth. 



GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 23 

For ordinary seams allow %'' to %"; for 
hems allow 2'' or 3" to 4" according to the gar- 
ment. If the garment laps in the front or in 
the back, care must be taken to make allowance 
for this lapping; otherwise it will be too tight. 

Joining of the Different Parts 

Join the different parts of the garment either 
with pins or with basting thread. Be careful 
that all the corresponding parts meet accu- 
rately, and also that the connecting points meet 
accurately. 



Fitting 

When all the parts of a garment are pinned 
or basted together, it is ready for fitting. This 
should be done in order to discover any mis- 
takes which may have been made. Mistakes do 
not always occur in the cutting, but they often 
occur through careless joining of the different 
parts. 

In fitting, the garment is ordinarily tried on 
with the wrong side out. The seam projection 
on the wrong side makes fitting easier. Per- 
sons who have one side different from the other 
should always be fitted with the right side of 
the garment out. Both sides of the garment 



24 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

must then be adjusted. But for a person regu- 
larly built, only one side, the right side, is fitted. 

Changes Made in Fitting 

Waist too large: If the waist of a dress or 
apron is too large in the front or back, take in 
the surplus in the underarm seam. If it is too 
narrow, let out the underarm seam. 

Front and back of the waist too long : If the 
waist is too long, take it up on the shoulder 
seam ; if it is too short, let it out on the shoulder 
seam. If the waist is too high and narrow at 
the neck, notch it carefully all around. If a 
high neck is desired, take a straight piece of 
cloth and place this around the neck like a collar 
and mark it with pins or basting thread just 
below this line. Then notch carefully within 
1/16'' of this line. If the neck is too large, a 
condition which should be guarded against as 
much as possible, take up the back and the 
shoulder seams. If the armseye is too large, 
a condition which, like the neck, should be care- 
fully avoided, take in the shoulder and the un- 
derarm seams. If the armseye is too small, 
notch it and cut it out carefully, especially 
around the lower curve of the armseye. 

Skirts can, according to the needs, be changed 
from top to bottom. Sleeves, if too long, are 
taken in at both the top and the bottom in order 



GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 25 

to keep the elbow in its proper relative position. 
Many other mistakes may occur. It would be 
difficult to mention all of them. A little prac- 
tice will enable any student not only to see mis- 
takes, but also to correct them. 

Alterations 

After the fitting, the alterations are marked 
with a tracing wheel, basting thread, or tailors' 
chalk. The seam of the garment is then opened 
and placed on the opposite corresponding side. 
This side is then also marked. Great care must 
be taken to preserve the symmetry of the gar- 
ment. It is advisable to fit an altered garment 
a second time before the seams are stitched and 
finished, to make sure that every part is correct. 

Sewing 

No definite rule can be given for the sewing 
and finishing of garments, as seams and finish- 
ings depend on the type of the garment and the 
material used. Regularity of both seams and 
stitches, whether done by hand or machine, care- 
ful sewing of fastenings, good buttonholes, a 
neat and clean appearance, are essential to the 
construction of any garment. 

Pressing 

All pressing should be done, if possible, on 
the wrong side, but this is especially desirable 



26 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

on colored cotton cloth, wool, or silk. A bottle 
with a sprinkler top or a bowl of water and a 
sponge are convenient for pressing cotton gar- 
ments. A woolen garment should be pressed on 
the wrong side, or if it must be pressed on the 
right side, a heavy piece of ticking should be 
put over the material to prevent it from be- 
coming glossy. If pressed on the wrong side, 
a piece of cheesecloth dipped in water and 
wrung out well should be used. 



\ 



CHAPTER III 



SEWING APRON 



A sewing apron should be worn during the 
sewing class. It not only protects the dress but 
the pockets are convenient for holding the neces- 
sary tools and materials during the work. One 
pocket should be used for the handkerchief 
only; the other for such tools and materials as 
may be used during the work. 




Fig. 8. — Sewing Apron 
27 



28 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Suitable Material 

Materials such as flaxon, dimity, lawn, muslin, 
cambric, percale, chambray, or any other ma- 
terial may be used. Material 27'' wide works 
up to better advantage than any other width. 

A C 

n — v 



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ft: 
to 

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ED 



CO 






Pockets 



CO 



27" 



Fig. 9 

Required Measurements 

The w^aist measure — the band may be 2'' or 
4" smaller than the waist measure, since the 
strings are added. 



SEWING APRON 29 

The leng-th^this should be taken when the 
person is standing. Measure the length from 
the waist to the finger tips. This will give the 
length needed for the apron. 

Standard Measurements 

By standard measurements is meant those 
measurements which experience has proved are 
used for the average person. 

Waist— 26''. 

Length— 18''. 

Required Material 

To make this apron use % of a yard of 
cross-barred material 27" wide. 
No. 90 white thread for machine stitch- 
ing. 

No. 9 '^between" needles for hand sew- 
ing. 

Cutting 

1. Measure 7" from the selvage on the width 
of the material and draw a thread. (See Fig. 

9.) 

2. Cut off this piece, and use it for the band 
and the strings. Lay it aside until the body of 
the apron is finished. 

Making 

1. Take the body of the apron, which is a 



30 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

piece 27" by 20'', and on the width (the narrower 
side) fold a hem which, when finished, is %" 
deep. 

2. Crease this well. Pin or baste it down. 
In loosely woven materials, especially in cross- 
barred dimity, threads pull very easily. The 
pulling of a thread assures an even hem. 

3. Stitch this hem by machine, close to the 
turned-in edge. 

Pockets 

1. From each end of the hem measure 8" 
along the selvage and 8" along the opposite side. 
Draw a thread. This indicates the depth of the 
pocket. 

2. Fold this over on the apron so that the 
hem is on the inside, and crease the fold well. 

3. Divide this into two or three equal sec- 
tions. Put pins at these dividing points. By 
means of the dull-edged scissors indicate the 
lines which are to be stitched. 

4. Stitch the dividing line by machine. On 
each divided line, make two rows of stitching 
%" apart. Start from the bottom of the pocket. 

Sides of the Apron 

1. Baste each side of the pocket to the side 
of the apron. Baste with fine thread and very 
close to the edge. 



SEWING APRON 31 

2. Baste a %'' hem on each side of the apron 
and stitch it by maclnne. 

Gathering the Apron for the Band 

1. Find the middle of the apron and mark 
this with a basting thread of a contrasting color. 

2. Make 2 rows of gathering stitches by ma- 
chine i/i'' apart. To gather the material by 
machine, loosen either the top or the lower ten- 
sion and adjust the machine to the longest pos- 
sible stitch. The thread which lies the straight- 
est on the material will be pulled up for the 
gathers. 

Preparing the Band 

1. Take the piece of the apron which was laid 
aside and cut off a strip 3" wide for the band. 

2. Make a %'' turn on all four edges and 
crease it well. If possible, press it with a flat- 
iron. 

3. Fold the band crosswise and find the cen- 
ter. This will be the center of the front. Mark 
this with a contrasting thread. Measure 7'' 
from each side of the center front and mark 
this also with a contrasting thread. 

Putting the Band on the Apron ■ 

1. Pin the right side and the center front of 



32 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

the band to the wrong side and the center front 
of the apron. 




Fig. 10. — Detail of Sewing Band on Apron 

2. Pin each side of the band marked with the 
contrasting threads to each side of the apron. 

3. Draw up the gathering threads of the 
apron to fit the band. 

4. Divide the fuUness so that there is very 
little in front. 

5. Fasten the gathering threads by twisting 
them around the pins at each side. 

6. Baste or pin the apron very evenly to the 
band. 

7. Stitch the apron to the band by machine. 
Use the creased line of the band as a stitching 
line. 



SEWING APRON 33 

8. Crease the seam open between the thumb 
and forefinger and then press it back on tlie 
band. 

9. Next turn the band over on the right side 
of the apron and pin it so that it covers the first 
stitching. 

10. Pin the extending portions of the band 
together. 

11. Do not stitch it until the strings are put 
on the band. 

Stitching the Strings 

1. Take the piece of material 4'' wide which 
was left from the band and on each one of the 
long sides make a %'^ hem and stitch it by ma- 
chine. 

2. On the two narrow sides, fold a %/' hem 
and stitch this by machine. 

3. Cut this piece crosswise into two parts. 
These are for the strings. 

Putting on the Strings 

1. Make two pleats in both unfinished ends. 
Make these pleats so that they will fit exactly 
inside the band. Slip the strings into the open 
side of the band. 

2. Baste the strings to the band very care- 



34r GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

fully, so that each side will look like one con- 
tinuous thread. 

3. Stitch the band to the apron and stitch 
the strings into the band. This can all be done 
in one stitching*. Begin at the right side of the 
apron near the end of the gathering. Stitch all 
along the gathers and the one extending end of 
the band. Turn the corner and stitch the string 
to the band. Stitch this up, down, and up 
again, so that there will be three rows of stitch- 
ing. Stitch these close to each other. Next 
turn the corner and stitch all around the upper 
edge of the band; then repeat the three stitch- 
ing strips where the other string joins the band. 
Finish the remaining stitching on the band. 
Tie and finish the machine threads carefully. 

The seam of the apron may be finished with a 
feather, a chain, or any other fancy stitch. 

Marking 

Mark the initial with an outline stitch V 
below the hem and in the center of one of the 
pockets. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Cut the material 21" by 27". 

2. Cut off a strip 1" wide along the selvage. 



SEWING APRON 35 

3. Fold and make the hem of the pocket. 

4. Measure the depth of the pocket. 

5. Turn over the piece for the pocket. 

6. Mark the divisions of the pocket and stitch 
these by machine. 

7. Fold 1/4" hem along each side. Baste and stitch 
these by machine. 

8. Stitch 2 rows of gathering stitches on the ma- 
chine. 

9. Cut the band. 

10. Prepare the band. 

11. Sew the band on the apron with the first stitch- 
ing. 

12. Prepare the strings. 

13. Baste the strings on the band. 

14. Stitch the band on the strings and make the 
last stitching all around the band and the apron. 

15. Mark the initials with an outline stitch. 

QUESTIONS 

1. What materials may be used for this type of 
sewing apron ? 

2. What are aprons used for? 

3. What are the special purposes of this apron? 

4. What is the special advantage of this apron ? 

5. Is it economical to wear an apron? 

6. How many different types of aprons can you 
name? 

7. What different materials are used for each 
type? 



36 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

8. Name some aprons and the suitable materials 
for each. 

9. How many different seams are used in this 
apron ? 

10. State two different ways of gatherinir. 

11. Write a composition on the apron, telling how 
you made it. 



CHAPTER IV 

PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 

Unbleached or bleached muslin (fruit of the 
loom, daisy cloth, longcloth, etc.), outing flannel, 
or cotton crepe are the materials most com- 
monly used for nightgowns. For fine night- 
gowns nainsook may be used. 

A plain kimono nightgown is chosen for the 
first problem because it is very simple in cori- 
struction, very practical, and one of the most 
popular garments worn. The principles for 
drafting used in it are basic, and once under- 
stood may be used on garments for a baby, a 
child, or an adult. 

Required Measurements 

1. Entire length — This should be taken from 
the highest point of the shoulder to the floor. 

2. Bust — This measure should be taken very 
looseh^ 

3. Front waist length — This measure should 
be taken from the neck to the waistline. 

37 



38 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Standard Measurements 

1. Total length 50''. 

2. Bust 39''. 

3. Length of front 16". 




Fig, 11. — Kimono Nightgown 

Hem around neck turned from the inside toAvard the outside, 
then turned back on itself 

To decide on the length of any garment, take 
the number of inches the garment should be 
from the floor and then add 1" for shrinkasre, 
2" or 3" for the hem, and, if the person is still 
growing, add 2" or 3" more. 

Required Material 

Twice the length of material 36" wide 



PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 39 

is needed; 1% yard lace (% yard for 
the neck, 1 yard for the sleeves) ; No. 70 
white cotton for machine stitching ; No. 
8 Sharp needles; fine steel pins; em- 
broidery cotton for initials; a hard 
drawing pencil; one eraser; a tracing 
wheel. 

Preparing the Material Before Drafting the 
Pattern 

1. See that the ends of the material meet 
exactly when they are folded together. Fre- 
quently in the process of manufacturing mate- 
rial it is pulled out of shape and one end is 
longer than the other. In this case take hold 
of the short corner and the corner that is diag- 
onally opposite from the short end. Pull on 
the short diagonal until the ends are even. 

2. Fold the material crosswise through the 
middle and then lengthwise. 

3. Pin the four selvages together carefully, 
putting the pins at right angles to the edge. 

Drafting the Pattern (See Fig. 12) 

After the material is folded first crosswise 
and then lengthwise, mark the corners A, B, C, 
D. 

AB is the length of the garment. 
AC is Vi of the width of the garment including 
the length of the sleeve. 



40 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



AI From A measure 314'' on the AC line, and 
locate I. 



A I SHOULDER K Q 

Bust Line wf^ 



H 




R 

D 

Fig. 12. — Draft of Kimono Nightgown 



PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 41 

AJ From A measure Sy^'^ on the AB line, and 
locate J. Connect J and I by a curved 
line. This line indicates the back of the 
neck. 

AH From A measure 4^2^ on the AB line, and 
locate H. Connect H and I by a curved 
line. This line indicates the front of the 
neck. 

AE From A measure W on the AB line and 
locate E. This line indicates the waistline. 

AF From A measure 8'' on the AB line, and 
locate F. This line indicates the bust 
line. 

AK Measure 13'^ on the AC line, and locate 
K. This line indicates the width of the 
bust measure, including the necessary full- 
ness. 

KM From K draw a line 16'^ long and parallel 
to CD, and locate M. This line indicates 
the combined length of the sleeve and the 
underarm seam. 

FN From F draw a line 13'^ long and parallel 
to the line AC, and locate N. 

CL From C measure 8'^ on the CD line, and 
locate L. This line indicates the width of 
the sleeves. 

LO From L draw a line parallel to AC 3%'' 
long, and locate 0. This line indicates the 
underarm seam. 



42 GARMENTS FOR GTRLS 

NP From N draw a line lVi>'' long on the KM 
line, and locate P. 

OP Connect OP by a curved line. This line 
is the underarm curve. 

DR From D on the DC line measure 3'', and 
locate R. This is measured upward on the 
selvage to form the hem. Place the yard- 
stick on R and draw a straight line to con- 
nect R with the underarm seam P. This 
line will form the side seam of the garment. 

DS Measure y/' on the DC line, and locate S. 
Draw the line RS. 
Cut away the corner SD so as to have the 

length of the garment the same from NS as it 

is from F to B. This will make the gown hang 

evenly. 
Mark on the AB line the words ^'center 

front.'' 

Cutting Out the Material 

Do not remove the jjins from the selvage but 

1. Cut out the side seam LOPR. Use long 
even strokes to avoid notches. 

2. Cut out the back neck JI. 

3. Before unfolding the garment, run the 
tracing wheel over the front neck line HI. 

4. Take out the pins and unfold the garment 
once. 



PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 43 

Making 

1. Begin by pinning the seams together at 
the sleeve. 

2. Lay the garment full length on the table 
and pin the side seams together carefully. Put 
the pins about 5'' apart and at right angles to 
the edge. 

3. Side seam (French seam) : It is advis- 
able to let beginners use a yardstick and with 
the point of the scissors draw a line 14'' parallel 
to the edge. This will be a guide in stitching 
on the machine. 

4. To make a French seam (Fig. 13) : 

(a) Place the two wrong sides of the 

garment together and stitch the 
first stitching on the right side. 

(b) Open the seam and press it flat 

with the thumb and the finger 
nail. 




Fig. 13. — French Seam 

A, First stitching; B, soam opened; C, wrong side of 

finished seam 



44 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

(c) Trim the seam closely. Leave 

1/16" of the material. 

(d) Turn the gown wrong side out and 

crease the seam very flat. The 
stitching must be at the very top 
edge of the seam. 

(e) Hold the seam together by putting 

a few pins at right angles to the 
edge. 

(f) Hold it up to the light to be sure 

that the first seam is trinmied 
evenly so that no raw edges will 
extend beyond the stitching, 
(g) Stitch again and make the seam 
as narrow as the material will 
allow. It should never be more 
than 1/4'^ wide. 
5. Neck: 

(a) Turn a Vs" li^'i^ around the neck 
from the inside toward the out- 
side of the garment. 

(I)) Crease this well. 

(c) Turn it back upon itself. This 

will leave two turned in edges. 

(d) Baste these edges together. 

(e) Sew the lace to these edges. Be- 

gin the sewing at the center of 
the back. Hold the lace towards 
you. Use the overhand stitch. 



PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 45 

The lace may be a firm linen, 
Cluny, or torchon lace, but the 
best lace for this purpose is a 
narrow, tightly crocheted edg- 
ing or tatting. Cotton coarser 
than No. 70 should not be used, 
(f) For other methods of sewing on 
lace see Fig. 85. 

6. Hem: 

(a) Try on the gown. Adjust it care- 

fully at the shoulder, front, and 
neck. 

(b) Have another student take a yard- 

stick and with one end on the 
floor (the end showing 1'') see 
if the length is even. If the 
length is not even a pin should 
be put at the shortest point and 
one corresponding to that length 
at the front, another at the side 
and one at the back. 

(c) Take off the gown and trim it 

evenly along the bottom, using 
the pins as a guide. 

(d) For the bottom hem crease and 

press a 14'' turn first. Then turn 
a II/2'' or 2'' hem. 

7. Marking: Mark the initials with a pen- 
cil in the center of the front and 1'' from the 



46 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

neck. Outline these with a chain or outline 
stitch. The first letter of either name may be 
traced on the center front of the gown or the 
initial may be purchased ready to be stamped 
on the gown. 

8. Pressing : A bowl with a little water and 
a sponge should be near the ironing board. A 
bottle with a sprinkler top is convenient for 
pressing. Moisten the garment and press it. 
Be careful to see that the iron follows the warp 
and the woof threads. By following these 
wrinkles will be avoided. Fold according to 
Fig. 11. 

9. Compute the cost : the time. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Fold the material for drafting the pattern. 

2. Draft the pattern. 

3. Cut out the nightgown. 

4. Make the side seams. 

5. Fold the hem around the neck. 

6. Baste the hem around the neck. 

7. Try on the nightgown. 

8. Adjust the length and decide on the width of 
the hem. ^ 

9. Turn the hem. 

10. Stitch the hem. 

11. Sew the lace around the neck and sleeves. 

12. Outline the initial. 



PLAIN KIMONO NIGHTGOWN 47 

13. Press aud fold the nightgown. 

14. Compute the cost. 

15. Figure out the time. 

QUESTIONS 

1. What materials are suitable for nightgowns? 

2. What are the essential points to be considered 
in selecting the material? 

3. What are the essential points to be considered 
in selecting the trimming? 

4. What points are to be considered with regard 
to hygiene? 

5. What seams have been used in making the 
nightgown ? 



CHAPTER V 



KIMONO APUON WITH TUQvS 

An apron is worn to protect the dress. The 

material must be 
selected to accord 
with the use of the 
apron. 

Tea and after- 
noon aprons may 
be made of 
dainty, soft ma- 
terials such as 
dimity, muslin, 
dotted Swiss, 

or other 
material. 




crepe, 
soft 



Fig. 14. — Partly Fitted Kimono 
Apron 

A, Apron too large over slioul- 
ders; B, shoulder fitted by means 
of tucks. 

48 



I>utchers' aprons 
may be made of 
a white coarse 
linen, carpenters' 
aprons of ticking 
or twilled jean, 
kitchen aprons of 
calico, percale, or 
gingham, hospi- 
tal aprons of 



KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 49 

strong unbleached muslin, bleached muslin, or 
twilled jean, nurses' aprons of twilled jean, 
strong white muslin, or costume cloth. 





Fig. IT). — Kimoxo Apron 
(Front view) 



Fig. 10. — Kimono Apron 
(Back view) 



Aprons which cover the whole dress often re- 
place the house dress. They are frequently 
made on the kimono or princess style and may 
be made of chambray, seersucker, calico, ging- 
ham, or percale. (Figs. 14, 15, 16.) 



50 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



Standard Measurements 

Entire length of apron 52'', length of front 
from neck to waist 16", bust measure, 39''. 

Required Material 

Two lengths of percale 36'' wide, No. 
70 white thread for the machine stitch- 
ing. No. 50 white thread for button- 
holes, No. 6 "between'^ needles for the 
buttonholes, 4 buttons i/>" in diameter. 



f *• 



«*> 



Fig. 17 



KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 51 

Parts of the Apron (See Fig. 17) 

1. Body of the apron. 

2. Pocket 5" by 6" made out of piece from 
the neck. 

3. Belt 19" by 4''. The belt lining must be 
pieced. 

4. Cuff 3'' by 16'' at center and 2" near the 
underarm seam. 

5. 6, 7, 8. The remainder of the cloth is cut 
in 1'' strips of which 17'' are used for placket 
facing, 2 pieces of 8" each for the back and the 
front of the neck, and 2 pieces of 11" each for 
the sides of the neck. 

Preparing the Material for Drafting 

1. Fold the material crosswise and then 
lengthwise. 

2. Pin the selvages together as in the night- 
gown. 

Drafting the Pattern 

Let A be the upper corner of the folded edge 

and B the lower corner. 

Let C be the upper corner of the selvage 

edge and D the lower corner. 

Mark the fold AB ^^ center front.'' 
AE On the fold AB measure 16", and locate E. 
EX Draw EX parallel to AC. 



52 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



EM On the line EX locate M 13'' from E. 
EMX is the waistline. 



M" 






Y W 



K 



pjjyrJ-SP'I ^ Jij_ 



iV/A/ar Line: m 



>4 

o 



L 



B D 

Fig. 18. — Draft of Kimono Afkon with Tucks 



KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 53 

AF On the line AB measure 8'' from A, and 

locate F. 
FN At F draw a line parallel to EM. On this 

line locate N 13'' from F. The line FN is 

the bust line. 
AK On the line AC measure 13", and locate 

K. The line AK indicates the width of the 

garment including the tucks. 
KM From K draw a line parallel to CD to 

meet EX at 11. 
CL On the line CD measure 8" from C, and 

locate L. CL indicates the width of the 

sleeve. 
NP On the line KM measure IViz" down from 

N, and locate P. Join and P by a curved 

line. 
LO From L draw a line Sy^" long parallel to 

AC, and locate 0. LOP indicates the un- 
derarm seam. 
DR On the line CD measure 3'' from D, and 

locate R. 
PR Join P and R. 

The lines LOPR indicate the underarm and 

the side seams of the garment. 
AI On the line AC measure 3" from A, and 

locate I. 
AJ On the line AB measure 3'', and locate J. 
AH On the line AB measure 4", and locate H. 



54 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

IZ At I draw a line 3'' long and parallel to 
AB, and locate Z. - 

JZ Join J to Z. 

IT Extend IZ V further, and locate T. 

HT Join H to T. HTZI indicates the neck 
line. 

lY On the line AC measure 2'' from I, and lo- 
cate Y. 

YW On the line AC locate W 2'' from Y. 
At Y draw a line 6'' long parallel to AC. 
At W draw a line 6" long parallel to AC. 
These lines will indicate the places for the 
tucks. 

J)S. On the line CD measure I/2'' from D, and 
locate S. Join S and the line BD by a 
curved line. This line indicates the extra 
material that needs to be cut away so that 
the seam ND is not longer than the front 
FB. 

Tracing and Cutting Out 

1. Trace the lines marked for the tucks very 
plainly so that they may be seen through the 
four folds. 

2. Cut out the neck. 

3. Cut out the front neck as traced, that is, 
V deeper than the back. 

4. Cut out the side seam and the underarm 
of the apron. 



KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 55 

5. Unfold the apron until there are only two 
thicknesses. 

6. Cut the belt, the cuffs, the neck and the 
placket finishing. Care must be taken to cut 
these small pieces as they are shown in the Fig- 
ure. The pieces under the arms will be large 
enough to furnish all the material for the fin- 
ishings if they are cut carefully. 

The pocket which is 5" by 6" is made from 
the piece cut away at the neck. 

The belt which is 19'' by 4" and the lining 
(which must be pieced) are made from the 
pieces under the arm. 

The cuffs, which are 3'' by 16", are made from 
pieces under the other arm. 

The pieces of cloth for bands, etc., are cut 
from what remains. Each strip is 1" wide. 
(See Fig. 17, Nos. 5, 6, 7, 8.) 

7. Each piece should be marked with the 
student's full name. 

Construction 

1. Neck: 

(a) Make a %'' turn from the left to 

the right side all around the 
neck, notching the corners to the 
depth of the turn. 

(b) Take the strips of 1" material that 

were cut. Make a %" turn 



56 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 




Fin. 10. — Detail of Neck Finish fok Aprox 
A, Fold of material before binding is put on; B, C, diflferent 
ways of mitering: corners; D, finished mitered corner; E, un- 
even basting; F, side basting. 

along both edges on the wrong 
side. After the turns are folded 
each strip will be %" wide. 
Care must be taken to have them 



KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 57 

long enough, since some length 
will be taken up in the mitering 
of the corners. If a hot iron 
is convenient press all of the 
strips. 

(c) Baste the back and the front; then 

baste the side strips to the 
apron, being careful to make 
sure that the strips and the mi- 
ters match exactly. The warp 
and woof threads must meet at 
the corners. 

(d) Stitch the facing very close to 

each turn and finish the neck be- 
fore cutting the placket or the 
opening in the back. 

2. Underarm: Make French seams or 
French fell. They should not be more than 
1/4'' wide when finished. 

3. Placket: 

(a) Cut from the neck down through 

the center of the back 16". 

(b) Hem the right or the top side with 

a %" hem. 

(c) Face the left or the under side 

with a strip 17" by 1". 

(d) Lock the corners of the placket at 

the neck. 

4. Tucks: Crease the lines at Y and W. 



58 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Pin the tucks and stitch them approximately 
y^^ wide. They are 11/2" apart. Stitch down 
6" in the front and 5" in the back. Tie the 
threads on the wrong side. These tucks may 
vary in width. They may be made wider or 
narrower according* to the size of the girl. 
(See Fig. 14.) One side is adjusted by means 
of tucks. The other side shown is too loose 
and consequently does not fit. 

5. Hem: Use the gauge. Turn and pin a 
2'' or 3'' hem. Turn under 14''. Be careful to 
have a very even hem. Lay in very small 
pleats any surplus fullness. If the pleats are 
large they will form points or uneven places in 
the hem. 

6. Pocket : The pocket is the piece cut from 
the neck piece. Face the top with a piece sim- 
ilar to the neck finish. Fold it lengthwise in 
halves and cut IV2" up from the bottom diag- 
onally to a point on both sides. Turn the edges 
under about Vi"- Place it 6" down from the 
waistline and 7'' from the center front. Baste 
or pin it in place. Stitch it to the apron. Be- 
gin at a point %'' down from the top at one 
edge; stitch diagonally across to a point I/2" 
from the side of the pocket; then stitch all 
around, finishing the other corner in the same 
way. This is done to strengthen the corners 



KIMONO APRON WITH TUCKS 59 

and to prevent the pocket from tearing easily 
when the hand is put into it. 
7. Belt : See page 97. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Fold the material for drafting the pattern 

2. Draft the pattern. 

3. Cut out the apron. 

4. Stitch the belt. 

5. Cut the pieces for the finish of the neck, placket, 
pocket and sleeve. 

6. Finish the neck. 

7. Make the side seams. 

8. Cut and finish the placket. 

9. Try on the apron. 

10. Decide on the size of the tucks at the shoulder. 

11. Pin the belt to the waistline. 

12. Decide on the size of the hem and turn it 
around the bottom. 

13. Stitch the hem around the bottom. 

14. Stitch the pocket to the apron. 

15. Finish the sleeves. 

16. Make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons. 

17. Mark the apron with the initial. 

18. Press the apron. 

19. Fold the apron. 

20. Compute the cost. 

21. Figure out the time. 

QUESTIONS 
1. In what way does the pattern for the apron 
differ from that of the nightgown ? 



60 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

2. What materials may be used for this type of 
apron ? 

3. What should be considered in selecting ma- 
terials for aprons? 

4. What seams were used in making this apron? 

5. What finishing did you use? 

6. What precaution did you take in sewing the 
pocket to the apron? 

7. What is characteristic of a good buttonhole? 

8. How were the buttons sewed on? 

9. Of what different materials are buttons made? 



CHAPTER VI 

KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH YOKE 

This garment, with the exception of the yoke, 
which is made of pink chambray, is made of un- 
bleached muslin. The material is folded and 




Fro. 20 — Kimono Nightgown with Yoke 

the pattern drafted and cut in exactly the same 
way as the kimono apron and nightgown. The 
measurements also are the same. 

61 



62 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



Parts of the nightgown : Body, yoke, cuffs. 
Required Material 

Two lengths of 36'' wide material, 16'' 




B 



16^ 



:R 



Fig. 21. — Draft of Kimono Nightgown with Yoke 



KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH YOKE 63 



of 28'' wide pink chambray (be sure the 
color is fast), pink embroidery cotton, 
basting thread. No. 70 white stitching 
thread, needles, pins, pencil, eraser, 
and tracing wheel as used for other 
garments. 

Preparing the Material and Drafting the Pat- 
tern 
Fold the material and draft the pattern just 
as in the first nightgown; 3" or 31/2" niay be 
cut out for the width of the neck. (See Fig. 
21 and Fig. 22.) 

Cutting Out the Garment 

1. Cut the side seam. 

2. Trace the neck line hut do not cut until 
the yoke is basted on. 

Drafting of Yoke (See Fig. 22) 




Fig. 22. — Draft of Yoke for Kimono Nightgown 



64 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Cutting Out and Preparing the Yoke 

1. Cut 16'' of pink chambray along the sel- 
vage. 

2. Cut this piece through the middle length- 
wise. 

3. Take one of these pieces and fold it through 
the center lengthwise, then crease the fold care- 
fully. 

4. Fold it crosswise through the center and 
crease this carefully. This will form a square. 

Call the corner which has no selvage A. 

Letter the lower folded corner B, and the 

selvage corners C and D. 
AJ On the side AB locate J 3'' in from A. 
AI On the side AC locate I 3" in from A. 
JT Draw a line 3" long and parallel to AC, 

and locate T. 
IT Draw IT parallel to CD so as to form a 

square in the corner of the goods. 
AT Draw a diagonal lino from A to T. 
UT On the diagonal line AT measure 1" from 

T, and locate the point U. 

Draw the curved line connecting I, U, and J. 

This forms the neck line. 

Measure SV^" from the curved line toward 

the open edges of the square, and locate .Q. 

Put dots at intervals of about 1". These 

dots w^ill form a dotted line the curve of 

which runs parallel to the neck line JUL 



KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH YOKE 65 

Crease and press firmly AI and AJ. These 
creased lines will indicate the middle of the 
front and the middle of the back and each 
shoulder line. 

Cutting Out 

1. Cut through the four thicknesses around 
the upper and the lower 'Sy^' curved line. 

2. Pin together firmly. 

3. Cut a 3'' gage. 

Preparing the Yoke 

1. Unfold the yoke. 

2. Turn under 1,4" of these cut edges around 
the lower part of the yoke and around the neck. 
Crease each carefully. 

3. Press the edges down with a hot iron. 

Fitting Yoke to Nightgown 

1. Mark the center of the front and the cen- 
ter of the back. Spread on a table the night- 
gown on which the neck has been drafted. Use 
a contrasting thread along the folds. 

2. Fit the yoke on the gown so that the neck 
curves match. 

3. Pin the yoke smoothly and securely to the 
nightgown. Take care that the warp and the 
woof threads of both the yoke and the gown run 
in the same direction. 



66 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

4. After the yoke is pinned, baste all around 
it with an uneven side basting stitch. 

5. Baste a second time with small firm bast- 
ing stitches %'" from the lower edge. 

6. Cut out the neck of the garment V4'' above 
the neck line of the yoke. 

7. Crease down i/4'' around the curve of the 
neck of the gown to meet the yoke. 

8. Baste the two edges together. Be care- 
ful to see that the white does not extend over 
the pink. 

9. Stitch on the right side close to the upper 
edge, then stitch down the lower part of the 
yoke. 

10. Tie the stitching threads on the wrong 
side and remove the basting threads by snip- 
ping them at short distances rather than by 
pulling them all at once. 

Cuffs 

1. Take the piece left from the yoke and fold 
it once lengthwise. Then fold it again length- 
wise. 

2. Cut this piece in four pieces length- 
wise. 

3. Place one cut strip lengthwise along the 
selvage of the sleeve so that the cuff when 
turned back will come on the right side of the 
gown. 



KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH YOKE 67 

4. Pin the cufP and the sleeve together, with 
the pins at right angles. 

5. Stitch the cuff on by machine. Stitch %'' 
from the edge. 

6. Open the seam. Press it flat between the 
thumb and finger-nail. Then turn the cuff over 
on the right side of the gown. 

7. Turn the raw edge under i/i"- Crease it 
carefully. 

8. Baste it down evenly and smoothly. 

9. Stitch close to the upper and the lower 
edge of the cuff. 

Side Seam — Flat Fell 

1. Turn the garment wrong side out and be- 
gin by pinning the ends of the sleeve evenly 
and securely. 




Fig. 23.— Flat Fell 



2. Then lay the garment on the table and pin 
the side seams together evenly. 



68 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

3. Stitch about %" from the cut edge. 

4. Press the seam open with the thumb and 
finger nail. 

5. From the stitching line turn a fold less 
than 1/4'' and crease this carefully. If a hot 
iron is convenient press the crease. 

6. Unfold the seam and cut away the ma- 
terial from the front or lower seam, leaving 
only Vs'' of the material extending above the 
stitching. 

7. Take the back or upper part of the seam 
and folding this over, trim off all surplus ma- 
terial. Only enough should be left to allow for 
a good seam. 

8. Baste the seam down with small stitches. 

9. Stitch close to the edge of the seam. 

Hem 

Try on the garment. 

Finish the bottom just as you did the kimono 
nightgown. 

Marhing 

Work all around the outline of the initials 
with a chain or an outline stitch. 

The center of the letter may be filled with 
French knots. 

Trimming 
A few scrolls may be drawn around the initial 



KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH YOKE 69 

with a pencil, and these scrolls may be out- 
lined or f eatherstitched. 

Compute the cost : the time. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Measure and fold the material for the night- 
gown. 

2. Draft the pattern for the nightgown. 

3. Cut out the garment except the neck. 

4. Cut the material for the yoke. 

5. Draft the yoke. 

6. Turn under and press the edges of the 3"oke. 

7. Baste the yoke to the garment. 

8. Stitch the yoke to the garment. 

9. Cut the cuffs. 

10. Stitch the cuffs to the gown. 

11. Make side seams. 

12. Try on the garment. 

13. Turn a hem at the bottom. 

14. Stitch the hem. 

15. Mark and embroider the initials. 

16. Press. 

17. Compute cost. 

18. Compare wath ready-made garment. 

QUESTIONS 

1. What materials were used in the nightgown? 

2. Which is the stronger muslin, the bleached or 
the unbleached? 



70 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

3. What are the characteristics of a good muslin? 

4. Will the pink chambray fade? 

5. What shall we do to prevent the colors from 
running in washing and thus spoiling the other 
clothes ? 

6. How shall we set colors? 

7. Is the pink chambray dyed in the piece or in 
the threads? 

8. How do you recognize this? 

9. Which is the better and why? 

10. In what way did this nightgown differ from 
the first one? 

11. What was repeated and what was new ? 

12. After making this nightgown, what changes 
would you make if you made a gown for your little 
sister ? 

13. What would you do to make the second one in 
less time and probably make it better? 

14. Could you make a gown independently at 
home ? 

15. Could you make a kimono wrapper after this 
nightgown pattern ? 

16. What changes would you make? 



CHAPTER VII 

KIMONO NIGHTGOWN WITH TUCKS AND HAND- 
MADE TRIMMING 

This nightgown is made according to the 
same measurements as the p>^ttern just used. 
Instead of two tucks on each side of the shoul- 
ders as in the apron we have five, six or seven 




Fio. 24. — Ktatono Ntohtgown" 
Tnoks and hand-inade trimminof may l>e used to advantage 

tucks. These tucks should be made with great 
accuracy. The hand-made trimming as shown 
in Figs. 25 and 26 can be made at a cost of not 
more than 2 or 3 cents. This will show the 

71 



72 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

student how an inexpensive trimming is made. 
It will demand accuracy in measuring, es- 
pecially in the use of the %'' or Y/' according 
to the width of the scallops. The work on this 




Fig. 25. — Handmade Scallops for Nightgown 

In this garment the scallops are made before the bias piece is 

stitched on 

garment should reveal a higher degree of work- 
manship than that on the preceding garment. 
It should show the student's progress in sewing. 
The material best suited is muslin, or long 
cloth, or, for finer garments, nainsook. 

Required Materials 

Twice the length of the garment in ma- 
terial 36" wide. No. 60 white thread for 
machine stitching. No. 40 crochet cotton 
for featherstitching, No. 7 ^'between'' 
needles for featherstitching, 1% 
yards of fine bias lawn 2'' wide for the 
neck and sleeve trimming, No. 90 or 100 
thread for making the scallops, No. 9 



NIGHTGOWN WITH TUCKS 73 

or 10 needle for making the scallops, a 
table cushion and a coarse needle to 
mark the scallops for the trimming. 




~ Fig. 26. — Detail of Hand-made Trtmmixg for Nightgown 
Here the scallops are made after the bias piece is stitched to 

the garment 

Drafting the Pattern 

Draft the pattern just as you did for the 
apron with the tucks — with one exception as 
shown in Fig. 18. Draw lines for the extra 
tucks between I and Y, between Y and W, and 
beside W. These lines should be parallel to the 
tucks at I, Y and W. They should be 6'' long 
in front and 5'' long in the back. 

Tracing and Cutting Out 

The same precaution must be observed here 
as was observed for cutting out the neck of the 
apron. Trace distinctly with a tracing wheel 
on the four layers before the garment is un- 
folded. 



74 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Construction 

The tucks should be made first. 



A I Y w 




Fig. 27. — Kimono Nightgown with Hand-made Trimming 



NIGHTGOWN WITH TUCKS 75 

Side Seams 

These can be finished with a French seam or 
with a flat fell seam. 

Preparing the Trimming for the Neck and the 
Sleeves 

1. Cut a piece of sheer, fine lawn on the true 
bias and then cut off strips 2" wide and 1% 
yards long. This will be sufficient for the 
sleeves and the neck. 

2. Put the cut edges together and fold the 
strips through the center. Crease these well 
or press them with a hot iron. 

3. Put this folded strip on the weighted table 
cushion and lay the tapeline on the strip %'' 
from the edge. 

4. Take a very coarse needle and prick 
through the material every %'' or %'' ac- 
cording to the width you desire the scallops 
to be. 

5. When the entire length is marked, thread 
a fine needle with No. 90 or 100 thread. At 
each pricked point make two overhand stitches 
over the folded edge. Draw the thread very 
firmly to form the scallop. 

6. Put the needle between the two layers of 
the material to the prick. Pull out the needle 
and repeat the overhand stitch. 



76 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Sewing Trimming to the Garment 

When the scallops are finished, turn under the 
edge of the neck i/'y'' ; turn in an even line. Turn 
an edge of the same width on the sleeve. 

1. Take the scallops, start at the right side 
center of the back Let the trimming extend a 
little beyond the nightgown so as to cover the 
turn of the material on the wrong side. 

2. Baste the scallops on the neck and sleeves. 

3. Stitch the turned edge of the neck and the 
sleeves closely to the trimming. 

4. On the wrong side of the garment turn un- 
der the rough edge of the scallops to make a 
1/4'' hem. Use a gauge so as to be sure that the 
strip is the same in width throughout. 

5. Crease this turn well. Cut away any sur- 
plus material under the turn. Baste this down 
so as to make a hem or fell seam. 

6. Stitch by machine close to the turned 
edge. A finish of featherstitching on the right 
side is preferable. Featherstitch the tucks. 
Adjust the length. 

Hem 

Put in the hem as in the previous garments. 

Marking 
Outline or embroider the initials 



NIGHTGOWN WITH TUCKS 77 

Pressing 

Press the featherstitching and the initials on 
the wrong side. Press the rest of the garment 
very carefully on the right side. The pressing 
of the embroidery on the wrong side will make 
it stand out in relief. 

QUESTIONS 

1. What material has been used in the nightojown? 

2. What material has been used to make the trim- 
ming? 

3. Explain how the trimming has been made. 

4. What is the difference between the tucks made 
in the nightgown and those made in the apron ? 

5. What stitches have been used in the making of 
the nightgown ? 

6. What seams have been used in the making of 
the nightgown? 



CHAPTER VIII 

WORK OR COOKING APRON 

This stj'le of apron lias been adopted for a 
cooking apron in several schools because it does 
not require much material and is easily laun- 
dered. The width is such that it can be easily 
passed flat through a laundry mangle and there 
are no buttons to come off. Used as a cooking 
apron, it may be made of muslin, twilled jean, 
Indian head, or any strong white material. If 
for housework, blue engineering cloth, calico, 
percale, or chambray may be used. 

Standard Measurements 

Length of the apron 48'' (measured from the 
shoulder to the lower edge of the apron). 
Bust measure 36". 

Required Material 

Measure the length from the waist to 
the point where the hem of the apron 
should come. Twice this amount less 
3" is the amount needed for the apron. 
For instance, if the distance from the 

78 



WORK OR COOKING APRON 79 

waistline to the lower edge of the apron 
is 3(r, twice this sum (60"), less 3" or 
57" is the amount needed for the apron. 



Fig. 28. — Work or Cooking Apron 

Parts of the Apron 

I, body of the apron; II, piece cut out from 
the neck from which the pocket is made; III, 
gores ; IV, piece left from which the strings and 
the binding of the apron are cut; V, strings. 
(See Fig. 29.) 



80 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Preparing the Material for Drafting the Pat- 
tern 

Take a piece of material II/2 yards in length 
and fold this through the center lengthwise. 
Pin the selvages together carefully and mark 
the corners A, B, C, and D. 

Drafting the Pattern 

Let the corner AB be the length needed for 

the apron and AC the width. 

AE From A on the AB line mark 6", and lo- 
cate E. 

EH From E draw a horizontal line 3'' long, 
parallel to the AC line, and locate IT. 

EF From E on the AB line draw a line 2" 
long, and locate F. 

FG From F draw a line V long and parallel 
to the EH line, and locate G. 

GH Connect GH by a straight line. This line 
will form the seam in the yoke in the middle 
of the back. 

FI From F draw a line 4" long, and locate I. 

IJ From I draw a line 4'' long and parallel to 
the AC line, and locate J. This line indi- 
cates the chest line. 

IK From I on the AB line measure 6", and 
locate K. 

KJG Connect KJG by a curved line. This 
line indicates the neck line of the apron. 



WORK OR COOKING APRON 81 




Fig. 29. — Draft of Work or Cooking Apron 



82 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

KL From K on the AB line measure 8", and 

locate L. 
LM Extend the L line parallel to the AC line, 

and locate M. This line indicates the waist 

line. 
KN Extend the K line 1", parallel to the AC 

line, and locate N. This line indicates the 

bust line. 
JO From J draw a line 3" long and parallel 

to the AC line, and locate 0. 
MP From M on the ML line measure 6", and 

locate P. This line indicates the back part 

of the apron. 
PNOH Connect PNOH by a curved line. 

This line indicates the underarm seam and 

the shoulder seam of the apron. 

Side Gore 

MR From M on the CD line measure 8", and 
locate R. 

RS From R measure a line 6'' long and paral- 
lel to the AC line, and locate S. This line 
indicates the width of the side gore. 

PR Place the ruler on P and R and from P 
draw a diagonal line ly/' lt)ng, and locate 
X. 

MXSC Connect these points by a curved 
lino. 
This will form the outer seam of the gore 



WORK OR COOKING APRON 83 

which is added to the apron. (See Fig. 
29 III.) 

Cutting 

Wliile the apron is still folded, cut out (1) 
the neck line KJG, (2) the center back GH, (3) 
the shoulder and curved arm line HONPM, 
(4) the gores CSXM. (5) Cut off V from the 
neck piece II and from the piece IV as indi- 
cated by the long dotted line. (6) Cut out the 
strings. (See Fig. 29.) 

Making 

1. Take the folded apron and the folded 
gores and place the gores with the point C to 
the point M. The wider part M will meet Z. 
This point is raised about V above D to allow 
for the curve around the back of the apron. 

2. Pin the selvage of the apron and the sel- 
vage of the gores with the right sides together. 

3. Stitch by machine as narrow a seam as 
the selvage will allow. 

4. See that the bottom of the apron is even 
and that there is a good curve at the side. 

5. Take the binding previously cut and pin 
the right side of the binding to the right side of 
the apron. Adjust the binding to the part from 
which it was cut. (Have the connecting points 
of the apron and the facing meet.) 



84 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

6. After these parts are all pinned in place, 
join the bindings together, stitch the seams, and 
then press them open. 

7. Stitch the binding to the apron by Vs" 
line all around the body and the neck of the 
apron. 

8. Press this seam open and turn the bind- 
ing on the left side of the apron. 

9. Crease the edges very flat so that the 
stitching is visible, and stitch again on the right 
side close to the edge. 

10. Measure with a gauge, a %" binding. 
Turn the cut edges under. Be careful that the 
binding is even all around the apron. 

11. Pin and press this before stitching. 

12. Stitch the binding very close to the inner 
edge. 

13. Close the back with a French or a flat fell 
seam. 

Pocket 

1. Hem or bind the pocket at the top. 

2. Outline initials on the pocket. 

3. Measure 5" from the center front and 14" 
down from the neck and stitch the pocket to the 
apron. 

Strings 

1. Cut the strings 16'' long and 2i/o'' wide. 
(See V of Fig. 29.) 



WORK OR COOKING APRON 85 

2. Fold each of these lengthwise through 
the center and stitch them together. 

3. Press the seam open and then turn the 
strings to the right side. 

4. Stitch on the right side all around the 
two long and the one short edges. 

5. Pin the strings to the apron, 1" from the 
waist line and at right angles to it. 

6. Stitch the strings on the right side of the 
apron. 

7. Stitch along the edge of the apron. 
Press and fold the apron. 

Compute the cost: the time spent in making 
the apron. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

Steps in Making the Cooking or Work Apron 

1. Fold the material. 

2. Draft the pattern. 

3. Cut out the apron. 

4. Sew on the gores. 

5. Cut out the bindings, the pocket and the 
strings. 

6. Pin the binding all around the apron and the 
neck. 

7. Pin and stitch the seams in the binding. 

8. Stitch the binding to the apron. 

9. Open the seam of the binding. 

10. Turn the binding to the wrong side. 



86 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

11. Stitch the binding very close to the edge all 
around the body and the neck of the apron. 

12. Turn the raw edge of the binding under so as 
to leave a finished binding of y.^^' to %''. 

13. See that the binding is even all around. Use 
the gauge to test, then stitch very close to the turned 
edge. 

14. Close the opening at the back with a French 
or a flat fell seam. 

15. Prepare the pocket, (a) Outline the initials, 
(b) hem the top, (c) turn under the edges around the 
vsides and the bottom, (d) stitch the pocket to the 
apron. 

16. Make the strings. 

17. Stitch the strings to the apron. 

QUESTIONS 

1. Name suitable materials that can be used for 
the cooking apron. 

2. Name suitable materials that can be used for 
aprons for housework. 

3. How are the edges of this apron finished? 

4. Name different ways that the edges could be 
finished. 

5. What seams were used in the construction of 
this apron? 

G. How are the strings made ? 



CHAPTER IX 

CORES 

1. First Method (See Fig. 30). 

Ordinarily, material varies in width from 27" 
to 36'', but this is not wide enough for the bot- 
tom of some of the garments of adults. To pro- 
vide the necessary width, gores are needed and 
these may be cut in different ways. 

Figure 30 shows a nightgown cut out of 
36'' material. If the width BD is not sufficient, 
we may add a gore. By cutting part LONMD 
from under the sleeves all along the diagonal 
to the bottom, we may obtain two gores or rather 
four half gores. One of these gores may be 
sewed to the line ND by placing the line NOL 
with the selvage at DM. These, then, may be 
sewed with the broader top part LO to the lower 
pointed part D. 

2. Second Method (See Fig. 31). 

To add gores to 27" material If 27" mate- 
rial is used, as in cotton crepe, not only gores 
are needed to widen the bottom, but frequently 
the sleeves also must be added. (See Fig. 31 

I.) 

87 



88 



GARMENTS FOK GTRLS 



The (lotted line AB indicates the center front 
and the length of the garment. 

The line CND indicates the selvage of the 




Fig. 30. — Fjkst Method of Putting on Gores 

27'' material ; MDN, the added gore ; CH JN, the 
added sleeve. The sleeve should measure 5". 
It is more economical to buy and cut two night- 
gowns because one length of 1 V4 yards will make 



GOEES 



89 



the four gores and sleeves for both nightgowns. 
(See Fig. 31 11.) 

Take a piece of material li/4 yards long. This 
piece will furnish material for four gores and 




Fig. 31. — Secoind Method of Putting on Gores and Sleeves 

four sleeves. As shown in Fig. 31 II, the 
third and fourth sleeve must be pieced from 
parts cut away at the square neck. 



90 GAKMENTS FOR GIRLS 

3. Third Method (See Fig. 32). 

AB Fold the material AB lengthwise. Keep 
the selvage edges on the right. 

ABCD Mark the npper left-hand comer A, 
the lower left-hand corner B, the upper 
right-hand corner C, and the lower right- 
hand corner D. 

LO Locate the underarm seam LO. 

F Locate the middle point of DL and mark 
it F. 

OLF From measure 3y2" on the edge OL. 
Connect and F by a lead pencil line. 
Cut away the corner LOF. This is the 
gore. 

To sew on this gore, place the larger part 
of the gore OL so that D will meet L on 
the DH line. 

Be sure that the selvage edge L of the 
gore is next to the selvage edge D. 
In many French chemises and nightgowns, 
one finds that the back gores are often con- 
siderably longer and wider than the front 
gores. 

The best line and the neatest work are ob- 
tained by sewing the selvage edges of the 
gores to the selvage edges of the garment. 
If only one gore is used and two bias edges 
of the gore are sewed to the selvage edges 
of the garment, the straight edge is felled 



GOEES 



91 



over the bias edge of the gore and a flat 
fell is made. 




Fig. 32. — Third Method of Adding Gores 



CHAPTER X . 

COOKING OR SERVING APRON 

This apron, like the kimono apron, may have 
the skirt closed or open. If the skirt is closed, 
it often takes the place of a dress skirt, and 
worn with a white waist it makes a very satis- 
factory garment for the student in a food lab- 
oratory, for the nurse in a hospital, or for the 
waitress whose work requires a clean and neat 
appearance. For nursing and cooking aprons 
such materials as Indian head, twilled jean, cos- 
tume cloth, muslin, crash, drilling, etc., may be 
used. For housework any material suggested 
for the kimono apron may be chosen. 

Standard Measurements 

The same standard measurements as for the 
kimono apron are used : Length 52", length of 
front 16", bust 36". 

Required Material 

Twice the length of 36" wide material, 
No. 90 white thread for stitching, 
white bastino- thread. No. 8 needles 

92 



COOKING OR SERVING APRON 93 

*^ Sharps'' for hasting, No. 8 needles 
*^betweens" for huttonholes, No. 50 
white thread for buttonholes, No. 36 





Fig. 3.3. — Cooking or Serving Fig. .34. — Cooking or Serving 
Apron (Front view) Apron (Back view) 

white thread for sewing on buttons, No. 
6 or 7 needles ^^ Sharps" for sewing on 
buttons, 6 white pearl buttons 1/2" in 
diameter. 



94 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Parts of the Apron 

(1) Body of apron, (2) pocket obtained from 
the neck piece, (3) facings to strengthen the 
shoulder pieces, (4) bias facings for the neck 
and pocket finish, (5) belt. (See Fig. 32.) 

Preparing the Material for Drafting the Pat- 
tern 

Straighten the material, fold it first length- 
wise and then crosswise, and pin according to 
the directions for the kimono apron. 

Drafing the Pattern (See Fig. 32). 

AB the length of the apron. 

AC 14 of the entire width. 

AE From A measure 16" on the AB line, and 
locate E. This indicates the waist line. 

EL From E draw a line 12'' long and parallel 
to the AC line, and locate L. This indi- 
cates the point where the side seam will 
come. 

AF From A measure 8" on the AB line, and 
locate F. This line indicates the bust line. 

AJ From A measure 4'' on the AB line, and 
locate J. This line indicates the chest line. 

AG Draw a 4'' square in the upper left-hand 
corner A, locating thus AIGJ. These lines 
indicate the neck line. 

AH From A measure 9" on the AC line, and 



COOKING OE SERVING APRON 95 



locate H. This line indicates the width of 
the chest. 

9 — ^^ 

I ...i :C 




Fig. 35. — Draft for Cooking or Serving Apron 



96 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

HK From H draw a line 16" long and parallel 
to the CD line. 

LM From L draw a line upward 3" long and 
parallel to the CD line. This indicates the 
underarm opening. 

ON Draw a line IV2" below and parallel to 
IH, and locate ON. This line indicates the 
front shoulder opening. 

SS' On each side of N draw a straight line 
%" long, and locate S and S'. Connect S, 
S' and O by straight lines. This will form 
a wedge which is S'O IV2'' wide between 
S and S' and runs to a point at 0. This 
will adjust the apron to the slope of the 
shoulders. Round the corners S and S' like 
the corners OGT. (See Fig. 35.) 

SUM From S draw a curved line, SUM. 
Curve it Vli'' ^t T and 4" above K on the 
KH line. 

DR From D on the DC line measure 3", and 
locate R. 

Tracinc) and Cutting 

1. Trace with the tracing wheel all the 
drafted lines around the neck and shoulders. 

2. Cut out the rounded neck JGOI. Then 
cut out along the traced line the underarm and 
side seam HSS'UM. 

3. When cutting the shoulder seam NO, be 



COOKING OR SERVING APRON 97 

very careful that the two fronts are short and 
that the part S'OIH remains for the back. 
This makes the back longer so that it may but- 
ton over the shoulder on to the front piece. 

4. On the four shoulder pieces cut on each 
side of N the wedge shaped piece NSO. This 
is %" from each side of NS slanting to a point 
atO. 

5. Round one corner of the front piece by 
marking %'' down on each side and cutting to 
that point. When this corner is rounded, fold 
each shoulder piece through the center length- 
wise and cut each remaining corner exactly like 
the first one. 

6. Cut out 5 for the belt, 3 for the shoulder 
facings, and 4 for the bias bands. Save 2 cut 
out from the neck for the pocket. (See Fig. 
35.) 

7. Mark each piece on the wrong side with 
its full name. 

Makinr/ the Apron 

1. Belt: 

The four pieces marked 5 are used 
for the belt. Each pair must be sewed 
together so that the seam comes at the 
back. 

(a) Join two pieces together with 
a plain seam and crease this seam well. 



98 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

(b) Place the belts with the right 
sides and seams together. Piu two 
long sides and one short side evenly to- 
gether. 

(c) Mark with the yardstick a 
straight line i/4'' from each edge of the 
belt. 

(d) Follow this line and stitch the 
three sides by machine. 

(e) Open each seam and crease it 
flat. 

(f) Miter each corner. 

(g) Start at the small stitched end 
to turn the belt right side out. After 
you have it turned back 1" or 2" (so as 
to make a tiny pocket) insert a yard- 
stick and draw the belt over it. This 
will facilitate the process of turning the 
belt right side out. 

(h) Straighten the seams of the belt 
and crease them very flat so that the 
stitching will be at the very edge. Use 
pins to pull out the corners. Make 
these corners square. 

(i) Finish the short open end either 
round or square, and turn both sides 
exactly alike. 

(j) Stitch very close to the edge all 
around the belt. It is advisable to 



COOKING OR SERVING APRON 99 

press the belt before it is stitched the 
second time. 

2. Shoulder facing : 

The four pieces marked 3 are used 
to reinforce and face the shoulder 
pieces. Before basting them to the 
apron, stitch %" ^^loci on the lower side 
of each facing and then place the wrong 
side of the apron next to the wrong 
side of the facing, being careful that 
the warp and the woof run in the same 
direction. 

3. Making of the bias strips: 

Cut the bias strips as indicated in 
the drafting of the pattern. There 
will be four strips 3'' wide. Fold the 
cut edges together and cut through the 
center fold. This will give a piece IV2" 
wide. Again join these pieces and fold 
carefully in half and cut through cen- 
ter fold. Join these. One long piece 
%" wide will remain. A piece II/2 
yards long is required for each front 
and the same amount for each back. 
To prepare the facing fold this %" 
strip with cut edges together at the 
center and crease them well ; or better, 
press them with a hot iron. 

Bias facings or bindings folded in 



100 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

this manner will give satisfactory re- 
sults. 
4. Basting the bias facing to the apron : 

Before basting the bias facing to the 
apron, see that the shoulder facing is 




Fig. 36. — Detail of Sewing Bias Facing on Cooking or 
Serving Apron 

A, Facinj; stretched into shape; B, wrong side of edge 
turned on the right side of apron; C, facing basted to apron; 
D, first stitching near the outside edge of bias piece; F, sec- 
ond stitching near the inner edge of bias piece. 

basted carefully and that the corners 
are well rounded. 

(a) Turn and crease well (or press 
with hot iron) an %" even turn from 
the left to the right side around the 
edge of the neck and of the armseye of 



COOKING OR SERVING APRON 101 

the front and the back of the apron. 

(b) Take the folded bias piece be- 
ginning at the underarm seam and ap- 
ply this as a facing on the riglit side 
of the apron. Make sure that the edge 
of the bias is exactly even with the first 
turn. Baste the facing with an un- 
even basting stitch, taking care to 
stretch the outer edge of the bias fac- 
ing almost to a semi -circle around the 
curves of the neck and of the armseye. 
The facing must be stretched so that 
it lies perfectly flat around the curves 
without the slightest wrinkle. 

At the neck where the curves are re- 
versed the imvard curve must be 
stretched. Baste only around the 
outer edge. When both the front and 
the back are basted, stitch very close 
to the outer edge, using as tine a needle 
as the thread will allow. When the 
first stitching is done on both the front 
and the back, then remove the basting 
thread and stitch the lower edge. 
(Fig. 36.) 
Joining the back to the front : 

Join the back to the front with a 
French seam. 



102 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Putting ill the hem: 

(1) Try the apron on, (2) adjust the 
length, (o) put in the hem as done in 
previous garments. 
Sewing on the pocket : 

See page 58 for description of pocket 
of kimono apron. 
Stitching the belt to the apron : 

Stitch the belt to the apron by plac- 
ing the seams of the belt at the center 
of the back of the waist. Stitch two 
parallel rows of stitching on each side 
of the seam of the belt. 
Buttonholes : 
Sewing on buttons : 
Pressing and folding: 

Moisten the apron with a sponge, 
press and fold carefully. 
Compute the cost : the time. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Fold the material for drafting tha pattern. 

2. Draft the pattern. 

3. Cut out the apron. 

4. Cut out the belt. 

5. Make the belt. 

6. Reinforce the shoulder seams. 

7. Cut the bias binding. 

8. Prepare the bias binding. 

9. Pin and stitch the bias binding to both front 
and back of the apron. 



COOKING OR SERVING APRON 103 

10. Sew up the side seams. 

11. Prepare the pocket. 

12. Try on the apron. 

13. Decide where the buttons and buttonholes 
should come. 

14. Pin the belt to the apron. 

15. Pin the pocket to the apron. 

16. Adjust the length. 

17. Turn the hem at the bottom. 

18. Stitch the hem at the bottom. 

19. Stitch the belt to the apron. 

20. Stitch the pocket to the apron. 

21. Make the buttonholes. 

22. Sew on the buttons. 

23. Mark the apron with the initial. 

24. Press the apron. 

25. Fold the apron. 

26. Compute the cost. 

27. Figure out the time. 

QUESTIOiNS 

1. What materials can be used for this type of 
apron ? 

2. How was the bias binding cut? 

3. What precautions are necessary in sewing the 
bias binding together? 

4. What is the difference between a true bias and 
a garment bias ? How do you recognize each ? 

5. When can a garment bias be used and where 
must the true bias be used? 

6. What seams were used in this garment? 



CHAPTER XI 

PETTICOATS 

The petticoats shown in Fig. 37 are cut with- 
out the assistance of paper patterns. The 
measurements are marked directly on the cloth. 




Fig. 37. — Six-gored Flaxnel Petticoat with Scalloped 

Edge 

A, Double-hemmed placket; B, division of the band; C, fell 

and catch-stitched seam 

104 



PETTICOATS 105 

A petticoat for either children or adults may be 
cut with 2, 4, or 6 gores, depending on whether 
the material has a right or a wrong side. If it 
has a right or a wrong side then either 2 gores 
or 6 gores are necessary. 

Petticoats may be made of outing flannel, 
sateen, woolen shirting, cambric, muslin, etc. 

Standard measurements for a girl of 15 years : 
Waist 26", length 22''. 

Outing Flannel Petticoat 

Required Material 

11/4 yards cotton flannel or 2 lengths of 
the material. No. 70 white thread for 
stitching, No. 50 white thread for bast- 
ing. No. 40 white thread for button- 
holes. No. 6 needles, 1 white button %'' 
in diameter, No. 40 crochet cotton if, 
instead of a hem, crocheted scallops are 
preferred, No. 6 crochet hook. 

Four-Gored Petticoat 

A four-gored petticoat may be made of cot- 
ton flannel or any other material which has no 
right or wrong sides. 

Cutting (See Fig. 38 I). 

Cut ll^ yards of material 27'' wide into two 
equal parts. 



106 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

On the selvage edge of one of these two parts 

measuring 22V2'' long, cut a strip 221/2'' long and 

10'' wide. This is for the front gore. 

AB Fold this strip lengthwise. (See AB, Fig. 
38 I.) Keep the fold to the left and the 
cut edges to the right. 

AC From the upper folded edge A measure 
31/^" on the upper edge, and locate C. 

CD With a ruler, draw a sharp line from C to 
the lower right-hand corner of the goods. 
See D (I) in Fig. 38 I. 
Cut along the line CD. What remains is 
the front gore. 

From the 17" of goods left uncut, cut a 
band 2" wide along the selvage. The re- 
maining goods will form the back gore (II). 
Fold this piece in the center. (See Fig. 
38 II.) On the fold cut down 10" for a 
placket. 

Place the remaining half of the goods 
(221/^" long) with the cut edges at the top 
and the bottom and the selvage edges at the 
sides. (See Fig. 38 III.) 

AE From the upper left-hand corner measure 
9" or one-third of the width of the mate- 
rial on the cut edge. Mark that point with 
a pin. 

DE' From the lower right-hand corner meas- 
ure 9" on the cut edge DE', and put in a 



PETTICOATS 



107 



2^'/a 



5' 



D3 



^4^.K4(i. L/ 



Vs 



CrAfTS/^ 



3 AND 




JO' 



azy.. 




Fig. 38. — Draft for Petticoats, Foub and Six Gobes 



108 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

pin. Draw a line connecting the two pins. 
EE' Cut along the line EF/. 
EL From the top of each bias EE' measure 

221/^", or the side length. Put in a pin at 

L. 
LM Draw a curved line LM connecting the 

pin with the bottom of the skirt. 

Ma kin (J 

1. Pin one bias side of the front gore to the 
selvage edge of the side gore. 

2. Pin the bias ^dgG of this side gore to the 
straight edge of th(; back gore. Be sure that all 
the gores are even at the waist. 

3. Pin on the other side gore the same as the 
first one. 

4. Pin the back gore to the side gore. 

5. Stitch all these seams. 

6. Make each seam a flat fell seam. This 
may be stitched by machine or catch stitched. 

7. Fold the front gore straight down the cen- 
ter. 

8. Locate a point 3i//' on encli side of the 
center fold A and locate C. 

9. Locate a point IVj" from the top A. 

10. Join this point to C by a straight line. 

11. Cut away the goods on this line. This 



PETTICOATS 



109 




Fig. 39. — Placket with Uneven Hems (Wrong side of 

material ) 

A, First turn of hems folded and marked; B, second turn 
folded; C, narrow hem overlaps the large one; D, hems 
stitched and bottom of placket reinforced. 



110 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

cutting away will prevent the bulging of the 
skirt in front. 

12. Make a double-hemmed placket in the 
back, 10" in length (Fig. 39). 

13. Divide the skirt into 4 parts, one point at 
the center of the front, one point between the 
center and the back on each side. Mark these 
points with thread of a contrasting color. 

Put tin (J on the Band 

1. Run two gathering threads around the top 
of the skirt. Put the first one in %" from the 
edge of the skirt and the second one Vs" fi^om 
the first one. 

2. Make sure that the belt is 3'' or 4" longer 
than the waist measure. This extra allowance 
is to be divided 1'' or 2'' for overlapping, and 
a turn of at least T' at each end of the band at 
the place where the strain comes on account of 
the button and the buttonhole. 

3. Measure off from each end the amount to 
be turned over for the strengthening of the end. 
Mark these points with a thread of a contrasting 
color. 

4. Using these points as ends of the band, 
divide the remainder of the band into 4 equal 
parts. Mark each point with a thread of a con- 
trasting color. 



PETTICOATS 111 

5. Draw up the shirring strings of the skirt 
to meet the band approximately. 

6. Pin the right side of the band to the wrong 
side of the skirt. 

7. Be sure that the middle of the front of the 
band meets the middle point of the skirt. Pin it 
securely. 

8. At both ends of the band, turn and pin 
back the amount aUowed for strengthening the 
button and buttonliole. 

9. Pin the end of the placket to what is now 
the end of the band. 

10. Bring together the mark for the center of 
each side of the skirt and of the center of each 
side of the band. 

11. Push the shirring of the skirt about 1" 
from the center of the side of the band toward 
the back. This will give more fullness to the 
back and less across the front and the hips. 

12. Pin or baste the skirt and band together. 

13. Draw up the shirring threads so that the 
skirt fits the belt exactly. 

14. Fasten the shirring threads by winding 
them around the pins at each end of the band. 

15. In stitching the band to the skirt keep 
about 1/4'' from the edge. 

16. Open the seam and crease it down. Then 
press it back again. 



112 GARMENTS FOR' GIRLS 

17. Turn under the raw edge of the band. 

18. Bring this turned edge to meet the shir- 
ring threads. 

19. Baste or pin the band down. 

20. Stitch all around the band. See that the 




Fig. 40. — Detail of Sewing a Band to Garment 

edges are square and that the end of the belt 
and the end of the skirt meet exactly. 
Fwishwp the Bottom 

The bottom may be hemmed or scalloped. 

Six-Gored Petticoat with Ruffle 

Suitable Material 

Sateen, silk, chambray, crepe, seersucker or 
gingham may be used. 



PETTICOATS 113 

Required Material 

For a petticoat with a pleated ruffle as 
shown in Fig. 41, 2i/4 or 'ly^ yards of 
goods 36'' wide are needed. Tlie exact 
amount is determined by measuring the 
length of the skirt, subtracting the 
width of the ruffle and nmltiplying the 
results by 2. For example, if the skirt 
when finished is to be 36'' and a ruffle 6" 
deep is desired, the length of the skirt 
would be 36"— 6" or 30". This multi- 
plied by 2 would give 60"; that is, you 
would need 60", or 1 2/3 yards of goods 
for the main part of the petticoat. To 
this estimate, the ruffle nmst be added. 

Cutting the Front and the Back Gores 

1. A petticoat made from material either 
27" or 36" wide, with a right and a wrong side, 
may have six gores. 

2. The front and the back gores are cut the 
same as in the previous petticoat. (See Fig. 
38 T, IT.) 

3. Each side consists of two gores, and these 
four gores are cut from one length of the goods. 
(See Fig. 38 IV.) 



114 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Cutting the Side Gores 

Take the length of the material and fold it 
once lengthwise. 



Fh; 41. — Pleated Ruffle Sewed to a Scalloped Petticoat 

Lay the goods on the table with, the fold at 

the left. 

AB Mark the upper left-hand corner of the 
goods A and the lower end of the fold B, 
the upper right corner C, and the lower 
corner D. (See IV.) 



PETTICOATS 115 

AE From A measure one-third of the dis- 
tance AC, and locate E. 

BM From D measure one-tliird of the dis- 
tance BD, and locate M. 

EM Connect E and M by a straight line. 

Cutting 

1. Cut tlirough the fold AB. 

2. Cut the goods along EM. There will now 
be four gores. 

Making 

1. To each side of the front gore CI) (1), 
join one of the gores just cut. For example, 
AB (IV) to CD (I). 

2. To each of the bias sides of these gores 
pin one of the straight sides of tlie gores cut 
according to Fig. 38. (For example, join the 
side CD to EM of the same ligure.) Make sure 
that the petticoat is even at the top. Do not 
worry about the unevenness at the bottom. 
This can be remedied later when tlie gores are 
put together. 

3. Pin the straight side of the last gore to the 
bias side of one of the other gores. 

4. Join the last two sides together. 

5. Sew the seam with a flat fell seam. Out- 
ing flannel is best felled on the wrong side. 



116 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Sateen, silk, or any fancy material is best felled 
on the right side. 

6. Measure 1'' from the top of the center 
fold of the front gore and mark the point with 
a pin. 

7. Measure 6'' on each side of the top of the 
center fold and the front gore and put a pin at 
each end. 

8. Connect the pin at each side with the pin 
at the center by a straight line. 

9. Cut the goods along these two lines. This 
will make the front gore fit properly. 

10. Measure the length of the skirt from 
the top to the bottom at the center of the back 
gore. 

11. Measure each side seam from the top and 
put in a pin to mark the same distance as the 
back of the skirt. 

12. Trim off the bottom of the skirt so as to 
make it even. Use pins as a guide. 

13. The bottom may be finished with either 
a hem or a ruffle. 

The Ruffle 

1. The amount needed for a shirred ruffle 
is one and one-half times the width of the skirt, 
or a little less. 

2. Join the parts of the ruffle and make it 
continuous. 



PETTICOATS 117 

3. The bottom of the ruffle may be finished 
with tucks, hem, embroidery or scallops. 

4. Divide the ruffle into 4 equal sections and 
mark these sections with a thread of a contrast- 
ing color. 

5. Shir then the top of the ruffle. This may 
be done in three ways: (a) By using the ruf- 
fler on the machine; (b) by loosening the ten- 
sion and making the stitch longer; (c) by gath- 
ering by hand. 

The second method is the easier and quicker. 

P'litthig on the Ruffle 

The ruffles may be put on (a) by means of the 
receiving tuck, (b) by means of finishing })raid, 
or (c) by means of a French seam. 

The first of these is the method most 
used. 

ReceiviiKj Tuck 

1. Divide the skirt into four sections and 
mark each with a pin. 

2. Divide the ruffle into four sections and 
mark each with a thread of a contrasting color. 

3. Pin each of the points marked by a thread 
to a point on the petticoat marked by a pin. 

4. Be sure that the wrong side of the petti- 
coat meets the wrong side of the ruffle. 



118 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

5. Draw up the threads so that the ruffle 
meets the petticoat at all points between the 
pins. 




Fig. 42. — Ruffle Attached to Garment with a Receiving 

Tuck 

A, RufHe, stitched to the garment: B, seam opened and 
creased back; C, .%" tuck; D, crease of tuck stitched on the 
ruffle ; E, embroidery edge sewed to insertion with a French 
seam. 

6. Divide the fullness of the ruffle evenly in 
each section. 

7. Pin or baste the ruffle on to the petti- 
coat. 



PETTICOATS 119 

8. Stitch the ruffle to the petticoat as close 
to the edge of the ruffle as is practicable. About 
1/4'' or y^' is usually needed. 

9. Open the seam and then press it back on 
the skirt. 

10. Straighten out the petticoat so that the 
right side of the ruffle and the right side of the 
petticoat are on top. 

11. From the stitching measure 'J4'' by means 
of a gauge. Grease the skirt so as to have a 
continuous line all around the skirt and %'' from 
the stitching. 

12. Turn this creased line down upon the 
Stitching so as to cover the edge of the ruffle. 
(See Fig. 42.) 

13. Baste this crease to the ruffle. 

14. Stitch close to the edge of this crease. 

15. Turn the skirt wrong side out and stitch 
down the pleat at the top of the ruffle. 

Ruffle finished by means of a finishing braid. 
(Fig. 43.) 

The putting of the ruffle to the garment and 
the finishing with a bias binding or braid is 
shown in Fig. 43. 

Flealed Ruffle (See Fig. 41). 

For a pleated ruffle ordinarily 3 yards or 3 
widths of the material are used. 

1. Join the pieces of the ruffle and make a 
narrow hem. The hemmer may be used. 



120 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

2. Divide the ruffle into eight sections and 
mark the sections by means of contrasting 
thread. 

3. Draw with tailor's chalk, lines from top 
to bottom and lY/' apart. 




Fin. 43. — Ruffle Attached wtt?t a Fixishing Braid 

4. Fold over each of these lines and press 
each with a hot iron. 

5. Take each fold that is pressed and make a 
pleat %'' deep. 

6. Pin each pleat in place. 

7. Baste these pleats with a strong thread. 

8. Be careful not to make a back stitch, which 



PETTICOATS 121 

would later prevent the adjusting of the ruffle 
to the petticoat. 

9. Press well with a hot iron on the wrong 
side. Lay a piece of damp cheesecloth over the 
pleats. 

10. Sew the parts of the ruffle together and 
adjust the sections of the ruffle to the sections of 
the petticoat according to the directions given 
for a shirred ruffle. 



Scalloped Petticoat With Ruffle 

1. Fold the petticoat down the center of the 
front. 

2. Divide each half of the bottom into 
four equal parts and mark each division with 
a pin. 

3. Find the center of each of the two pins 
and from this center measure 3'' toward the top 
of the skirt. Put a pin there. 

4. When all the pins are put in, join each 
lower edge to each pin which is just above it, 
by means of a straight line drawn with tailor's 
chalk. 

5. Cut the goods on these lines so as to form 
the scallops. (See Fig. 41.) 



122 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Putting the Ruffle on the Petticoat 

1. Take the petticoat and pin the section of 
the petticoat to the section of tiie ruffle. 

2. Adjust the ruffle to the petticoat. 

3. Pin the ruffle to the petticoat so that the 
top of the ruffle comes about a quarter above 
the tojis of the scallops. 

4. Baste the ruffle on the petticoat. 

5. Turn the petticoat on the right side and 
baste down the scallops onto the ruffle. 

6. Stitch the scallops close to the edge on the 
right side. 

7. Turn over to the wrong side and cut away 
the ruffle so that only a ^^" edge remains. This 
edge may be pinked or overcast. 

8. If the material is closely woven and does 
not easily fray, these edges may be left raw. 
Raw edges are left on many French petticoats. 

9. Turn to the right side and stitch the scal- 
lops a second time. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Cut off the length of the material. 

2. Cut oft* the front gore, the back gore and the 
band, from one length. 

3. Cut the other length into two or four gores, 
depending on the material. 

4. Pin the side gores to the back gore. 



PETTICOATS 123 

5. Stitch the seams. 

6. Make the placket. 

7. See that the petticoat is cut out around the 
front, and run two gathering threads at the top. 

8. Put on the band. 

9. Make the bottom of the petticoat even and fin- 
ish the bottom. 

10. Make the buttonhole. 

11. Sew on the button. 

12. If the petticoat has a ruffle (a) prepare the ruf- 
fle; (b) prepare the bottom of the skirt for the ruf- 
fle; (c) stitch the ruffle to the petticoat. 

13. Press the petticoat. 

14. Fold the petticoat. 

15. Compute the cost. 

16. Figure out the time. 

QUESTIONS 

1. Name materials that are suitable for petticoats. 

2. What measurements are required for a petti- 
coat? 

3. What precautions >must' be observed when mak- 
ing a petficoat'? .'-.'- "^ ' 

4. Name different way^s that' petticoats may be fin- 
ished" around the bottonr. Around the top. 

- 5., \yhat .seams may be used in making petticoats? 



CHAPTER XII 

DRAWERS 

Drawers are divided skirts. The materials 
used in iiightg-owns, such as muslin, cambric, 
longcloth, cotton crepe, nainsook, etc., may be 
used for drawers. 

Drawers are made in various ways. They 
may be open or closed, wide or narrow, or may 
be made in bloomer fashion, but no matter which 
style is chosen, the fundamental principles of 
drafting the pattern are always the same. 

The legs are finished in many different ways. 
Embroider}^, beading, insertion, and crochet 
edges are greatly used. Very often drawers are 
finished with a plain hem only. 

The top of the drawers is finished with a 
straight or a fitted belt. Sometimes it is fin- 
ished with a plain hem. This may be made of 
an applied facing which may be cut on the 
straight or on the bias of the material. A rub- 
ber is often drawn through this hem. Rubber 
should not be used in white goods as the boiling 
necessary in laundering will spoil it. 

124 



DRAWERS 125 

Required Measurements 

1. The length should be taken from the waist- 
line to the knee. The same length is obtained 
by measuring from the center of the back along 
the extended arm to the wrist. 




Fio. 44. — Closed Drawers or "Bloomers" 

A, Extended part of band, turned under to reinforce the 
end; B, folded placket over back part of drawers; C, rein 
forcinjg^ seat; D, ruffle extended from length of drawers; E, 
drawers gather at the knee by means of a linen tape. 

2. The hip measure should be taken loosely 
over the largest part of the hips. The bust 
measure may be used instead of the hip meas- 
ure. The width of each leg at the seat line 
should be nearly equal to the bust measure. 



126 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

3. The waist measure should also be taken 
loosely. 

4. The knee measure must be taken if a band 
is used. 



Fk;. 45. — Opex Drawers 

A, Two darts take in the fullness in the front: B, edge of 
drawers faced with garment bias facing; C, ruffle sewed on 
with a receiving tuck. 

Standard Measurements 

Hip measure 40", waist measure 26'', length 
23". 

Drafting the Pattern 

1. Cut a piece of paper 36" wide and 30" 
long. 



DRAWERS 127 

2. Fold this paper lengthwise through the 
center and place it lengthwise, with the fold at 
your left and the cut edge at your right. 
AB Mark A on the upper left-hand corner and 
on the folded edge of the paper. 




Fig. 46. — Closed Drawers 
A, Flat fell seam ; B, French seam ; C, shaped hem : D, 
continuous placket 

Mark B on the lower left-hand corner. The 
fold AB represents the hip line of the draw- 
ers on the straight and fold of the material. 

AC Mark AC on the upper cut edge and BD 
on the lower cut edge. 

AE From A on the AB line, measure 4%" 
and locate E. 

EF From E, draw a line 14 of the entire hip 
measure plus 2'', and locate F. 



128 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

FG From F, draw a line 17" long and parallel 
to the CD line, and locate G. This line in- 
dicates the crotch, or the side line. 




Fig. 47. — Draft of Draw 



ERS 



EH From E on the AB line, draw a line 17" 
long and locate H. 



DRAWERS 129 

HI From H, draw a line 18'' long and parallel 

to the AC line, and locate I. This line 

indicates the seat line and the width of the 

drawers. 
EB From E, draw a line 23" long, and locate 

J. This indicates the hip line and the 

length of the drawers. 
JK From J, draw a line 12" or 15" long and 

parallel to the AC line and locate K. The 

width of the bottom is optional as it de- 
pends on the type of drawers. 
IK Connect I and K by a straight line. Find 

the middle between I and K, and locate L. 
LR Connect I and K again, cui^ing this line 

%" at L. 
FM From F on the FG line, measure down 1", 

and locate M. 
MN From M, measure 1" parallel to the AC 

line, and locate N. 
NF Connect N and E by a straight line. 

Mark this line ' ' front waistline. ' ' 
FO From F, draw a line upward 4" long and 

parallel to the CD line, and locate 0. 
OE Connect and E by a straight line and 

mark this line *^back waistline.'' 
01 Connect and I by a straight line. This 

line forms the center back seam. 
IP From I, measure 2%" on the IH line, and 

locate P. 



130 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

PP2 From P measure 21/2" upward parallel 
to the CD line, and locate P2. 

IN Connect N and I by a curved line, curving 
it at the point P.. (See Fig. 47.) To ob- 
tain this line use the curve of your chart 
which is marked neck curve. 

EX From E on the AB line, draw a line 8'' 
long, and locate X. This line indicates the 
place for the placket. 

KR If the drawers are to be finished with a 
hem then .turn the hem on the JK line on to 
the pattern and cut the point R to follow 
the line KLI. (See Figs. 46 c and ,47.') 

JSS If the drawers are to be open and 
rounded at the lower hip line measure on 
each edge from J 21/2" and draw a diagonal 
of 1'' from the corner J, and locate V. 

SVS Connect SVS by a curved line. 

OW From 0, draw a line 2" long and locate 
W. Connect W and by- a straight line. 

WI Connect WI by a straight line. This will 
allow more fullness for open drawers. 
Cut out the pattern: (See Pig. 47.) 

1. Along the back waistline marked EG. 

2. Around the back seam ,01. 

3. Around the curved leg ILK. 

4. Around the bottom KJ. 
Unfold the paper and then cut: 

1. The side seam IN. 



DRAWERS 131 

2. The front waistline NE. 

Parts of the closed drawers: The drawers 
consist of two pieces for the legs, one piece of 
material 19'' by 2" for the front belt, one piece 
of material 13'' by 2" for the back belt, two 
pieces of material 17" by 2" for the plackets, 
four pieces of material for reinforcing the 
crotch. Each piece forms i/i o^ ^ circle and 
measures l-i/j" at the two longer edges and 2^2^ 
through the middle. 

Placing the pattern on the material and cut- 
ting out the drawers: (See Fig. 48). The fin- 
ish for the bottom of the drawers must be de- 
cided upon before the pattern is placed on the 
material. Decide if the drawers should be fin- 
ished with a hem, a ruffle, lace or embroidery. 
If there is to be a ruffle determine whether it is 
to be of a different or of the same material. 
(See Figs. 44, 45.) Be sure of the finished 
length before the material is cut out and 
whether you must cut off, or allow on the pat- 
tern. 

If the instructions are carefully followed for 
cutting out, all the pieces that are required for 
the drawers will be obtained from the amount 
stated above. 

Making of the Closed Drawers 

1. Join the two front and the two back pieces 



132 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



with either a French seam or a flat fell seam. 
If a flat fell seam is made, care should be taken 




Fig. 48 



DRAWERS 133 

that the fell of each back and front seam turns 
over to the same side. When joined together 
this seam should look like one continuous seam. 
2. The inner leg seam may also be joined with 
a flat fell or a French seam. Take the back and 
the front pieces and pin them together carefully 
at the center seam. From this center, pin each 
one of the leg seams. This will help to make 
sure that the center seam matches exactly. The 
seam, whether French or flat, should first be 
pressed open as carefully as possible and then 
made as flat and as narrow as possible. A good 
width is %'' in fine material and never more 
than 14" in coarser materials. 

Plackets 

Cut a slit 8'' long on each leg on the hip line 
and on the fold of the material. 

The placket may be made as a continuous fell 
and bound placket or as a continuous bound 
placket. The latter is the easier to make. 

1. Cut a piece of material 17'' long and 2'' 
wide for each placket and place the right side 
of the placket on the wrong side of the material. 

2. Stitch these together with a plain seam. 

3. Open this seam well and press it back on 
the placket. 

4. Make Vh" turn and lay the turned edge so 
as to cover the first stitches. 



134 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

5. Stitch close to the edge of the turned hem. 
The second stitching will be on the right side. 

6. Crease the edges of the placket very flat, 
and at the bottom of the slit fold the placket 
over on the back part of the drawers. (The 
placket now will form a facing. See Figs. 44 B, 
46 D.) 

7. At the bottom of the slit make two rows 
of stitching. This will hold the placket to the 
back and will reinforce the placket. 

8. Pin the placket along the side back to the 
top of the drawers. 

Stitch, by machine, two shirring threads 
%'' apart on both the front and the back part 
of the drawers. 

The Bands 

For closed draw^ers, the band is made in two 
parts. The back part is shorter than the front 
and laps over the front. The buttonholes are 
cut in the back parts and the buttons are sewed 
on the front parts. On account of the great 
strain on the button and the buttonholes, and in 
order to strengthen the materials, the bands are 
reinforced by doubling the material at these 
points. (See Figs. 44, 46.) 



DRAWERS 135 

Finding the Length of the Back and the Front 
Part of the Band 

To find out accurately the length of the back 
and the front part of the band : 

1. Cut a piece of paper V wide and 1/2 the 
length of your waist measure. 

2. Write on one end '* center back'' and on 
the other end ^'center front." 

3. Fold this in the middle and make a pen- 
cil mark at that point. Each part will indicate 
% of your entire waist measure. 

4. From the pencil mark, measure over %" 
towards the center back and cut the paper. The 
part marked '^ center back" indicates the size 
of V2 the back band. The part marked '^ center 
front" indicates one-half the front band. 

Cutting Parts of the Band 

1. Cut a piece of material 2" wide and twice 
the length of the back part of the band, plus 
V\ which will be turned under to reinforce the 
band. 

2. Crease these turn well and put in a con- 
trasting thread to mark the center of the back. 

3. Take the piece marked ^'center front." 
Cut another piece of material 2'' wide, allow T' 
on each end for the placket which extends along 
the front, and allow 1" more for the reinforcing 
of the band. A total of 4" must then be added 



136 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

to the length of the piece of paper marked "cen- 
ter front. ' ^ 

4. At each end of the band turn under the 
material allowed for strengthening the ends. 
Crease these turns well and mark with a con- 
trasting thread the "center front." 

Sewing the Bmicl to the Drawers 

1. Take the back part of the band and place 
it with the right side to the wrong side of the 
drawers. 

2. Pin the place marked for the center back 
to the seam of the center back of the drawers. 

3. Pin each end of the drawers (the end 
where the placket faces the drawers) exactly at 
the end of the band. 

4. Draw up the shirr threads in the drawers 
to the same lengths as the band. 

5. Put a pin at each end of the drawers and 
wind the shirr threads around them. This will 
hold the thread in place. 

6. Adjust the gathers. Put most of the full- 
ness at the center. There should be but little 
fullness for IVo'' from each end. 

7. Pin or baste the drawers carefully to the 
band. 

8. Stitch the band and the drawers together 
with a plain seam. 



DRAWERS 137 

9. Open this seam well and press it back on 
the belt. 

10. Turn the edge under on the long cut edge 
of the band. 

11. Place this turned edge so as to cover the 
raw edges and the first stitching of the band 
and pin or baste it down. 

12. Make sure that the corners are square and 
even and finish each short end with an overhand 
stitch. 

13. Stitch very close to the turned edge. The 
last stitching is thus made on the right side. 

14. Take the front part of the band and re- 
peat as you have done for the back with this 
exception — the shirring should be pushed to- 
ward the edges and away from the center. 

Fitted Band 

Required Measurements 

The waist measure, the depth of the band. 

Standard Measurements 
Waist measure 27", depth of the band 3''. 

Drafting the Pattern 

Cut a piece of paper 13" by 13" and mark the 
corners A, B, C, and D. 
AB represents the center front. 
A'E From A' measure one-third of the entire 
waist measure on the AB line, and locate E. 



138 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



A'F From A' measure on a line parallel to 
the AC line tlie same distance as A'E, 
-minus %" and locate F. 

A'G From A' on the AB line measure %", and 




Fig. 41). — Fitted Baad 



locate G. Put the point of the compass at 
G and swing it along the EF line. 
EI From E on the AB line measure 3", and 
locate I. 



DRAWERS 139 

IH Place one point of the compass on G and 

from G as a center describe a curve until it 

touches the AC line. 
HK To obtain a little more fullness in the 

back extend the line from H %", and locate 

K. 
FK Connect F and K by a straight line. 

Cutting Out the Pattern 

Cut out the pattern on the line EF, FK, and 
IHK. 

Mark IE ^^ center front" and FH '' center 
back." 

Making of the Fitted Band 

This band may be closed in the back or in the 
front. The closing depends on the garment for 
which it is made. Ordinarily the fitted band is 
made of double material but single material may 
also be used. The ^'peplum" of shirt waist 
and corset cover is cut after this pattern and 
is made of single material. Bands for under- 
wear are ordinarily made of double material be- 
cause they are stronger and are more quickly 
and easily made. 

Buttons and Buttonholes 

A fan and barred buttonhole should be made 
at each end of the back part of the band. The 
buttons are sewed to the front part. 



140 GARAIENTS FOR GTELS 

Finishing the Lower Edge of the Drawers 

The lower edge of the drawers may be fin- 
ished with a plain hem, lace, embroidery, or 
ruffle. For fullness of the ruffle, ly^ times the 
width of the drawers is generally used. (See 
P'igs. 44, 45, 50.) Sometimes the ruffle is made 
of the same material and then the full width on 




Fig. 50 — Euffle Attached with Lace 

the material on the JK line (see Figs. 44 E, 47) 
is used. In this case, stitch two gathering 
threads 14 '' apart, along the K J line. Prepare 
a double band Vo'- or %" wide and the width 
of the knee. Pin the middle of the band to 
the right side of the hip line of the drawers 



DRAWERS 141 

and the seam of the band to the side seam of 
the drawers. Draw up gathering threads to 
fit this band. Pin or baste this band evenly 
and securely to the drawers and stitch each 
edge down by machine. Sometimes if a rub- 
ber or a tape is run through, this band is 
stitched around the full width of the drawers 
and the rubber or tape will draw up the full- 
ness and make it fit around the knee. The edge 
of the ruffle may be finished with a crocheted or 
embroidered scallop, w^ith a lace edge, or with 
a plain narrow hem. If a plain hem is used, 
it should be cut to fit the drawers. (See Fig. 
44 D.) 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Draft the pattern. 

2. Place the pattern on the material. 

3. Cut out the material. 

4. Reinforce the front and back part of the draw- 
ers. 

5. Sew the front parts together. 

6. Sew the back parts together. 

7. Sew up the inner leg seam. 

8. Cut and make the placket. 

9. Prepare the band for the front and back. 

10. Sew the band to the back part of the drawers. 

11. Sew the band to the front part of the drawers. 

12. Finish the bottom of the drawers. 



142 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

QUESTIONS 

1. Name different materials suitable for drawers. 

2. How may drawers be finished around the bot- 
tom ? 

3. How may drawers be finished around the top ? 

4. Should rubber be used in muslin drawers? 

5. What trimming may be used for the bottom of 
the drawers? 

6. Name the different types of drawers. 

7. In what do they differ? 

8. What seams are used in the making of draw- 
ers? 



CHAPTER XIII 

SKIRTS 

Skirts are made of cotton, linen, woolen, or 
silk material. These materials vary greatly in 
weave, finish and width. 

In selecting the material for any skirt the 
essential points to be considered are : 

1. On what occasion is the garment to be 
worn. 

2. What amount of wear it will stand. 

3. What length of time it is intended to be 
worn. 

4. What are the remodeling qualities of the 
goods. 

5. How the goods may be cut to the best ad- 
vantage. 

The skirt shown in Fig. 51 is made of cot- 
ton material 1 yard wide. This width was 
chosen because the skirt can be cut out with 
almost no waste. Any cotton, linen, woolen, or 
mixed material may be used. 

One must be careful when placing the pattern 
on the material to observe : 

1. Whether the material has a right or a 
wrong side. 

143 



144 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

2. Whether the material has an up and 
down, or whether a nap. 

3. Whether there is a distinctive pattern to 
be matched. 



Fig. 51. — Back View of Skirt 

A, Two gatherings at the normal waist line and one at the 
high waist line will keep the fullness in place; B, C, side seam 
should follow the plumb line; D, back gores joined with a 
French side. 

Figure 52 shows how to place the pattern on 
the material if it does not have a right or a 
wrong side or an up and do^vn. 



SKIRTS 



145 



Figure 53 shows how to make a skirt with two 
gores and how to place the pattern on the ma- 
terial if it has a right and a wrong side and an 
up and down. 




Fig. 52. 



-Pattern Placed on Material which has no Right 
OR Wrong Side nor an Up and Down 



Required Measurements 

The measurements needed for a skirt are : 
the waist measure, the hip measure, the front 
length, the side length, the back length. (See 
Fig. 5.) 

The waist measure should be taken over the 
corset cover. It should be the size of the belt. 

The hip measure is taken by standing behind 



146 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



the person to be measured and placing the tape 
line horizontally around the hips and about 7'' 




Fig. 53. — Pattern Placed on Material which has a Right 
AND A Wrong Side and an Up and Down 



SKIRTS 147 

from the waistline. This measure should be 
taken quite loosely. 

The length should be measured from the 
waistline to the floor. One should make sure 
that the line is horizontal around the waist; 
otherwise it will be impossible to get an even 
length. All the lengths (the front, the side, and 
the back lengths) should be taken from the 
waist to the floor. Then there should be de- 
ducted from one length the number of inches 
that one desires the skirt to be from the floor. 
For example, if the measurement from the waist 
to the floor is 42'' and the skirt is to be 10'' from 
the floor the front length should be 32". The 
side and back lengths should be measured ac- 
cordingly. 

Standard Measurements 

' Waist measure 26", hip measure 40", front 
length 32", side length 33", back length 33". 

The Drafting of the Pattern (See Fig. 54). 

Cut a piece of paper 36" wide and about 5" 
longer than the actual length of the skirt de- 
sired. The average length at the present time 
is 35". The paper should, then, be about 40" 
long and 36" wide. Take this paper and place 
it with the width, horizontally in front of you, 
and mark the corners A, B, C, and D. 



148 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



AC represents the width of the paper and the 

woof of the material. 
AB represents the length of the paper and the 

straight of the goods. 

- ZO' 




B D 

Fig. 54. — Draft for Skirt 

AL From A on the AC line measure one-half 
of the hip measure, and locate L. 

AM On the AC line from A, measure a Une 
the length of one-fourth of the entire waist 



SKIRTS 149 

measure and to this add %" and mark that 
point M For instance, if tlie waist meas- 
ure is 2&\ then i/4 of it is 6V2" find if you 
add %/' to this amount you have ly^'. It 
is the length of the line thus obtained, or 
7V4", that you must use in measuring on 
the AC line to locate M. 

AE From A on the AB line measure a line 3" 
long, and locate E. (The distance between 
A and E is always equal to one-tentli of one- 
half of the width of the bottom of the skirt.) 

EF From K draw a line 714" long and parallel 
to AM, and locate F. 

jNIF Connect M and F by a straight line. 

FG From the point F on the ME line, locate 
a point G which should measure as far from 
F as the difference between the front length 
and the side length of the skirt. For ex- 
ample, suppose the front length is 30", the 
side length 31''. The ditference will be one 
inch. 

EGL Connect E and G by a slightly curved 
line and then connect G and Ij by a straight 
line. Mark this line *^ waistline.'^ 

EB From E on the center front line AB, meas- 
ure the front length of the skirt, and locate 
K. 
From the waistline G measure down the side 

length. Place the end of the yardstick on the 



150 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

waistline. Let the other end come toward the 
bottom of the skirt. Mark dots with a pencil 
at the point which represents the length of the 
skirt. Move the yardstick (keeping it on the 
waistline) so that a series of dots will mark the 
bottom of the skirt. Place these dots at inter- 
vals of 2". To obtain the desired width take a 
tapeline and pin this around the bottom. This 
will help you to obtain a good curve. When 
the 32" point is reached (on the width of one- 
half of the skirt) place the yardstick again at 
L and make sure that the last dot is 3.T' (the 
length of the skirt) from the top. (See Fig. 
52.) Always be sure that half of the width of 
the skirt KJ (28'', 82'', 36", or wider) inter- 
sects at the back with the length of the skirt 
LJ. 

To prevent the skirt from having points or 
scallops in front and in the back, place the chart, 
or a right-angled corner, on the front KE and 
also on the back JL. At the corner K and the 
corner J, draw a line 3" long. Join the curve 
that represents the bottom of the skirt to these 
straight lines. 

Do not remove the tapeline until you are sure 

that the length is perfectly even and that you 

have a good slightly curved line at the bottom. 

KI Find the center of the bottom (which in 

this case is 16"), and locate I. 



SKIRTS 151 

10 On the IK line measure li/o'' from I, and 
locate O. This point is placed a little 
nearer to the front so that the side seam 
may hang perfectly straight. The seams 
in the skirts should always follow the plumb 
line. 

OG Connect and G by a straight line. This 
line indicates the side seam. Mark: 

1. The front line EK with the words ''cen- 
ter front straight of the material." 

2. The back line LJ ''center back, straight 
of the material." 

3. On each side of the side seams OJ "bias." 

4. Mark connecting points instead of notches, 
one at the center front, two at the side seams, 
and three at the back. (See Fig. 52.) 

5. Mark full name on each gore. 

Cutting Out the Paper Pattern 

1. Cut out along the waistline EGL. 

2. Cut along the center back LJ. 

3. Cut the bottom line JIOK. 

4. Divide the pattern on the line OG. 

Required Material 

Two side lengths plus 7'' for each 
length of 36'' material are sufficient for 
this skirt. These additional inches al- 
low 3" for a hem and 2" for a high 
waistline. For instance, if the hip 



152 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



length measures 32'', there should be 
added 3" for a hem and 2'' for a high 
waist, or a total length of 37" or 2 
yards and 2" of 36'' material will be 
needed to make a skirt and a belt as 
shown in Pig. 52. 

In addition, % of a yard of belting, 2 
white hooks and eyes No. 2, 2 snaps No. 
1, 3 yards of white bias binding (if the 
hem is finished with a binding), 1 spool 
No. 70 white thread for machine stitch- 
ing, 1 spool No. 40 white thread for 
sewing on the hooks and eyes, No. 6 
*' between" needles, tapeline. Make a 
gauge with 3", 2" and 1" plainly marked 
upon it. (See Fig. 55.) 



5Er 



x^ 



3E 



3'S' 



■^jin 



■ Z" 



K 



Name 



Fio. ao. — Making a Gauge 

Preparing the Material for Putting on the Pat- 
tern 
1. See that the material is perfectly smooth. 
If necessary, press it with a hot iron so that it 
lies perfectly flat. 



SKIRTS 153 

2. If there are just two lengths fold them 
with the right side and the selvages together. 

3. Be sure to place the cut edges together at 
the bottom and make the selvages meet. 

4. Pin the selvages together. Put the pins 
at right angles. 

Placing the Pattern on the Material 

No seams are allowed on this pattern. See 
Fig. 52. 

1. Take the front pattern marked ^^ center 
front, straight of the material" and place it on 
the material 3" from the cut edge at the bot- 
tom and 2" from the selvage at the front. Use 
the gauge where 3'', 2" and 1" are marked upon 
it. 

2. Place the back gore with the words "cen- 
ter back, straight of the material'^ 4" from the 
other selvage edge. The widest part of this 
gore should be 3'', or the width of the hem, from 
the folded edge of the cloth. Pin this pattern 
to the cloth securely and evenly. 

Cutting Out the Shirt 

1. Cut straight along the edge of the pattern 
marked "center back.'' A double strip of 3i^" 
will be left. Use this for a belt. 

2. With the gauge, measure V from each 
edge of the paper pattern marked "bias. 



M 



154 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Connect these two points by a line drawn with 
a ruler. 

3. Cut out each gore on these lines. 
Do not remove the pattern from the cloth. 

Outlining and Pressing the Seams in the Skirts 

1. Take the front gore and crease one layer 
of the goods very carefully over every edge of 
the pattern around the waist, the front, the bot- 
tom, and the side seam. 

2. After creasing the edges carefully, press 
them with a hot iron. In this manner every 
seam and stitching line will be marked. (See 
Fig. 74 for method of creasing the material over 
the pattern.) 

3. Now turn the pattern to the opposite side 
and on this side turn over the extending edge 
so as to meet the other turned edge very ac- 
curately. Press this firmly with a hot iron. 

4. Take the back gore and crease and press 
the bottom side seam and waist. Crease and 
press one side and then, turning the gore on the 
opposite side, crease and press this. 

Putting the Skirt Together 

1. Remove the back pattern and lay one gore 
fiat on the table with the right side up and un- 
folded bias seam towards the sewer. 

2. Remove the pattern from the front gores. 



SKIETS 155 

Take one front piece with the right side up, lay 
the pressed side seam directly over the pressed 
seam of the back gore. 

3. Put a pin at the waistline. Be sure that 
the waistline is even. Then put a pin at the 
crease marked for the hem at the bottom. Also 
be sure that the connecting points meet on a 
straight line. Next put several pins carefully 
along the side seam. Make sure that the lines 
and connecting points meet accurately. 

4. Take the gores from the left side and re- 
peat the process. 

Stitching the Skirt 

I. Side Seams 

1. When the two sides are pinned together, 
carefully stitch the side seam on the right side. 
Use the presser foot as a guide and stitch very 
close to the edge. 

2. Join the two back gores either with a 
French seam or a French fell. 

II. Fr^nt 

1. On the right side front gore, from the 
crease which has been pressed to allow for 2'' 
and which indicates the center front, turn over 
r' all along the selvage on the wrong side, and 
press this well. This turn will form the front 
pleat. (See Fig. 56 C.) 

2. Now take the two front gores and lay 



156 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

the right side over the left side so that the two 
creases which indicate the "center front" are 
directly opposite each other. 




Fig. 5G. — Detail of Front Closing of Skirt 

A, Skirt turned over tlie helt; B, skirt finished with l)ias 
binding; C, front ])k'at stitehed hack 1": D. phicket facing 
made by folding over the extended piece; E, metliod of sewing 
on fastenings. 

3. Pin the two together. Begin near the 
bottom at the pressed seam line. 



SKIRTS 157 

4. Pin these seams together. Leave about 
12'' from the front for the front opening. (See 
Fig. 56 C, D.) 

5. Be sure that the selvage edge of the ex- 
tended front pleat comes a little under the line 
so that the stitching will catch the turned edge. 

6. Stitch the two fronts together on the 
marked center front line near the 12'' allowed 
for the opening, break the thread in the bobbin 
or shuttle, slip the one side away from the 
presser foot, and continue to stitch the re- 
mainder of the front. (This avoids the break- 
ing of the upper thread.) 

7. Shirr by machine 2 gathering threads 
around the marked waistline. To do this : 

(a) Adjust to the longest stitch the machine 
will allow. 

(b) Use a coarse cotton on the machine as 
a fine thread will break too easily in drawing 
it up. 

(c) Loosen either the upper or the lower ten- 
sion. 
III. Hem 

Pin up the hem all around the pressed line. 
Put pins about 2" from the edge and about 5" 
or 6" apart. 

Preparing the Belt 

1. Cut off a belt about 4" to 6" longer than 
the actual waist measure. 



158 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

2. Fold it into two parts. Mark the middle 
with a pencil or a contrasting thread. This will 
indicate the center back. 

3. On each side from this center back mark 
% of the waist measure. Mark these also with 
a pencil line or with a contrasting thread. 

4. Find the point where the side seam should 
come. To determine this point, measure 1/4 of 
the waist measure minus %", starting at the 
center back. The point thus obtained is called 
the '* balance point," because at this point the 
side seam of the skirt meets the. underarm seam 
of the waist and later on, in dressmaking, it is 
the starting point from which many measures 
are tested. 

Putting the Skirt on the Belt 

1. If the belt is wide, mark a line through 
the middle with a pencil or a. contrasting 
thread. 

2. Pin the gatherings of the skirt at the 
seam in the center back, directly on the traced 
line and at the center back of the belt. 

3. Pin the gathering of each side seam on 
the drawn line of the belt and on the *' balance 
point.'' 

4. Pin the waistline and the marked center 
front line of the skirt on the center front line 
of the belt. 



SKIRTS 159 

5. The two side fronts should fit the belt. 

6. Draw the two gathering threads up in the 
back to fit the belt. 

7. Adjust the gathers evenly. Leave 1%" 
from the side seam with very little or no full- 
ness and pull the gathers well toward the mid- 
dle of the back. 

8. Adjust the gathers so that they will ra- 
diate. 

9. Pin the skirt carefully to the belt. Put 
the pins at right angles and close together. 

Fitting the Skirt 

1. See that the belt is placed horizontally 
around the waistline. 

2. See that the side seams hang straight 
from the hips down. 

3. See that the back and the front seams are 
perfectly straight. 

4. Lap the right side of the belt on to the 
left side, and to the line which indicates the cen- 
ter front of the belt. 

5. See that both edges are even at the top. 

6. If the measurements have been taken cor- 
rectly, the skirt will fit perfectly and will not 
need any alteration. 

7. However, to test the length, place a yard- 
stick perpendicular to the floor with the be- 
ginning end on the floor. This will show very 



160 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

quickly and accurately whether the skirt is the 
same distance from the floor all around. 

Basting the Shirt Over the Belt 

1. Put another shirrinti: thread at the top of 
the skirt. This will help to regulate the full- 
ness. 

2. With shallow overhand stitches baste the 
skirt over the belt. 

3. At the left side front, turn the selvage 
over V towards the left side. This will form 
the facing for the placket. 

4. On this side let the belting extend as far 
as the turned edge of the placket; then turn a 
I/2" hem. Baste the skirt to the belt as far as 
this point. 

StitcJi'oif/ the Skirt to the Belt 

1. Take a piece of bias binding Vy wide and 
lay this on the inside i/4" from the edge of the 
belt. 

2. Pin this binding all along the inside of 
the belt. 

3. Extend the binding 2" beyond the end of 
the belt to make sure that there is enough left 

.for a good finish. 

4. Stitch very close to the upper bias edge 
of the belt. 

5. Lift up the loose side of the bias edge and 



SKIRTS 161 

cut the extending seam of the skirt till this is 
even with the cut edge of the bias bindhig. 



Fig. 57. — Detail of Front of Skirt Closed with 
A Slot Seam 

A, Slot seam formed by folding over both edges and stitch 
ing tliem to a straight piece; B, wrong side of slot seam; 
C, inside of seam finished by turning the cut i'(\g;e once and 
stitcliing close to the edge; D, stitching the skirt on the belt 
without bias binding. The belt 'covers the edge of the skirt. 



162 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

6. Stitch the other edge of the binding to 
the belt. 

7. Finish the ends of the binding by turning 
them under. 

8. Sew on the hooks and eyes. 

9. Sew snaps on the placket. 

For another method of finishing the front of 
a skirt and sewing the skirt to the belt, see Fig. 
57. 

Putting in the Hem 

1. If you are sure that the skirt is an even 
length all around, then press the edge of the 
skirt on the inside with a hot iron. 

2. There are different ways of finishing the 
hem of the skirt and these different ways vary 
according to the material used in the skirt. 
But no matter what hem is chosen, a gauge must 
be used, and the hem marked. This gauge, 
measuring from the bottom up, must mark an 
even width all around. 

3. These marks may, according to the ma- 
terial, be made, with either a hard pencil, tail- 
or's chalk, or the tracing wheel. 

I. First Method 

1. After the width of the hem is marked, 
turn an even i/4" turn and press this turn with 
a hot iron. This turn must be even, as an un- 



SKIRTS 163 

even turn will show in transparent and in semi- 
transparent materials. 

2. Pin the hem down. It will be found that 
there is more fullness in the hem than in the 
skirt. The wider the skirt is and the deeper 
the hem, the more fullness there will be 
found. 



Fig. 58. — Details for Hemming a Skirt ry Pleating the 
Fullness at the Top by Means of a Bias Binding 

A, Horn pinned and bottom edtrc pressed; B, fullness ])leated 
and pinned; C, width of hem marked; D, gauge marking the 
line for the binding; E, binding pinned to hem with card- 
board between hem and skirt; F, binding stitched to the hem; 
G, binding stitched to the skirt. 

3. Make small, even pleats in the hem where 
the fullness is. If only a few deep pleats are 
made points will appear at the lower edge of 
the hem. (Sec Fig. 58 A.) 

4. Be sure, when you make these pleats, that 



164 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

they do not form scallops near the stitching 
line. Be very careful to keep an even stitching 
line around the hem. 

5. Hold the hem up to the light. Any ir- 
re«:ularitv will show. 



Fig. 59. — Details for Hemming a Skirt by Shirring the 
Fullness at the Top t.y Means of a Bias Binding 

A, Gauge marking the width of the hem; B, sliirr tliread 
made bv macliine to hold the fuUneas; C, cardhoard slii)i)ed 
between hem and skirt; D, bias binding pinned over tlie shirr 
thread; E, first stitehing of bias binding; F, eutting away 
surplus material ; G, stitching binding to skirt. 

6. Press the pleats and the upper edge in 
the hem. 

7. Stitch very close to the edge. 

II. Second Method 

This method is adapted especially to the 
needs of immature students. It is also found 



SKIRTS 165 

satisfactory for skirts made of heavy material. 
When an even width is marked all around the 
hem: 

1. Put in a shirring thread by machine. To 
do this, adjust the longest stitch the machine 
will take. Loosen either the top or the bottom 
tension. Then stitch on the marked line of the 
cut edge of the hem. 

2. Pull up the shirring thread so that the 
edge of the hem will fit the skirt. The shirring 
thread will hold in a great deal of the fullness, 
which otherwise would have to be put into 
pleats. 

3. Take a i/4'' bias tape. Lay the lower 
edge of the binding directly over the stitching 
and pin to the hem only. Slip a cardboard be- 
tween the skirt and the hem. This will pre- 
vent pinning the hem and the skirt together. 

4. When the binding is pinned all around, 
then stitch it, close to the edge, on to the hem. 

5. Press the hem and the binding. Any full- 
ness that may still be found press in small 
pleats. 

6. Stitch the upper edge of the binding to 
the skirt. (See Fig. 59.) 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Draft the pattern. 

2. Fold the material. 



166 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

3. Place the pattern on the material. 

4. Pin the pattern on the material. 

5. Cut out the front gore. 

6. Cut out the back gore. 

7. Press the seams over the paper pattern. 

8. Pin the side front seams over the side back 
seams. 

9. Stitch the side seams. 

10. Sew up the center back seam. 

11. Press the pleat for the center front. 

12. Run two shirring threads around the waist- 
line by machine. 

13. Pin up the hem around the bottom. 

14. Prepare the belt. 

15. Pin the skirt on the belt. 

16. Draw up the gathering thread to fit the belt. 

17. Fit the skirt. 

18. Make alterations, if necessary. 

19. Baste the belt to the skirt. 

20. Finish the skirt around the waistline. 

21. Stitch the hem around the bottom. 

22. Sew on the fastenings. 

23. Press the skirt. 

24. Figure out the cost. 

25. Figure out the time. 



CHAPTER XIV 

MIDDY BLOUSE 

It is desirable that each student have her own 
pattern fitted to her so that she may be certain 
that the neck, the shoulder seams, and the arm 
curve do not need any alteration after the blouse 
is cut. (Fig. 60.) 

With the help of a perfect fitting shirt waist 
pattern, a great deal of time and material are 
saved. The pleasure of making garments, when 
quick and satisfactory results are obtained, is 
greatly enhanced and thrift is fostered. 

The human body is built very symmetrically, 
and to draft a perfect-fitting pattern for a middy 
blouse or a shirt waist for a normal figure only 
two measurements, the length of the back and 
the bust measure, are necessary. A figure is 
normal when the length of the front is %'' more 
than the length of the back. The relation of 
all the other measurements needed will be found 
in the following fundamental measurements. 
Standard Measurements 

Length of back 15", bust 39". If the length 

167 



168 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

of the back is 15", then the length of the front 
is 1/2" more, or 15%". If the bust measure is 
39", the width of the shoulders across the back 




Fig. 60. — Middy Blouse and Pktticoat with 
Pleated Ruffle 

is one-third of the bust measure or 13". To 
this is added 1" so that the waist may be loose. 
The total width across the back between the 
shoulders is then 14", which is the measure- 



MIDDY BLOUSE 169 

ment across the back 4" below the neck. The 
chest measure 4'' below the neck is V more 
than the width across the back, or 15". The 
underarm measure is one-half the length of 
the back. The neck measure is the same as 
the back, or 13''. The waist measure is two- 
thirds of the bust, or 25 1/3". The sleeve meas- 
ure is 1V1> times the length of the back. The 
hip measure, for girls up to 18 years, is the 
same as the bust measure. For adults, 1/10 
of the bust measure is added. The hip meas- 
urement in the latter case is about 42". 

A loose measurement for both bust and hips 
is advisable. 

With the help of one well-fitted v/aist pattern, 
all the other garments such as the corset cover, 
shirt waist, nightgown v/ith sleeves, one-piece 
dress, envelope chemise, middy blouse, top coat, 
and later on, all the tight-fitting garments may 
be made. 

The middy blouse is a garment which is worn 
a great deal for gymnasium work, and hence 
must be very loose and ample. For this rea- 
son the shirt-waist measurements are enlarged 
as follows: 

%" is added to one-half the width of the back 
and to the front, 1/4" to one-half the width of 
the back and the front neck, and 2" to half the 
bust measurement. 



170 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 






Y'v^rwwww^rSi'^T'^w'^iifn 




Fig. 61. — Chart to Facilitate Drafting of Patterns 



MIDDY BLOUSE 

Required Material 

1% or 1% yards of 44" material is re- 
quired for a middy, or 2 yards of 36" 
material. This is sufficient for a dou- 
ble 12" collar, long sleeves, and cuffs. 

A -^ ^ ^ 



171 




Fig. 62. — Draft for Middy Blouse 

One-third of the KO line is equal to the width of the back 
neck measure EN, to the slope of the shoulder NQ and added 
to the width of the back indicates the under arm seam R. 

For square to facilitate the drafting of pat- 
terns, see Fig. 61. 



172 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Drafting the Middy Pattern. (See Fig. 62.) 

Cut a paper 22" by 26''. Mark the corners 

A, B, C, D. The line AB indicates the length 

of the middy and the center back. The line 

AC indicates one-half of the width of the back 

and of the front. 

AE From A draw a line V long on the AB 
line, and locate E. 

EF From E draw a line the full width of the 
paper, parallel to the AC line, and locate 
F under C. Mark this line "neck line." 

EK From E draw a line 3%" long on the AB 
line, and locate K. 

KL From K draw a line the full width of the 
paper and parallel to the AC line, and lo- 
cate L on the CD line. Mark this line 
"chest line." 

EI From E measure 71/2" on the AB line, and 
locate I. 

IJ Draw this line along the full width of the 
paper and parallel to the AC line, and lo- 
cate J on the CD line. Mark this line 
"bust line." 

EG From E on the AB line draw a line 15'' 
long, and locate G. 

GH Draw this line again the full width of the 
paper and parallel to the AC line, and lo- 
cate H. Mark this line "waistline." 
The principal guide and construction lines 



MIDDY BLOUSE 173 

are now located on the paper. The outline of 
the pattern may now be drawn. 

Back 

EM From E on the EF line draw a line 21/2" 
long, and locate M. This line is equal to 
one-third of the width of half the back. 

MN From M draw a line I/2" long parallel to 
the AE line, and locate N. This raised line 
indicates the curve for the neck. 

EN Connect E and N by a slightly curved 
line. This line indicates the back part of 
the neck of the middy. 

KO From K draw a line 71/2" long on the KL 
line, and locate 0. 

OP From measure upward a line 2Y/' long 
and parallel to the KA line, and locate P. 
This line is also equal to one-third of one- 
half the width of the back and is the same 
as the width of the neck EM. 

PQ From P draw a line Vii" long and parallel 
to the AC line, and locate Q. This extended 
line indicates the curve for the armseye. 

NQ Connect NQ by a straight line. This line 
is 5%" long and indicates the back shoulder 
seam. 

QO Connect Q and by a slightly curved line. 

IR From I on the IJ line draw a line 91^'' 
long, and locate R. 



174 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

RO Connect R and by a deep curved line. 

This line indicates the armseye of the 

middy. Use the curve of the chart marked 

^'arm curve.'' 
BS From B on the BD line draw a line 10" 

long, and locate S. 
RS Connect R and S by a straight line. This 

indicates the underarm seam. 

Front 

FT From F on the CD line draw a line 2%'' 

long, and locate T. 
FIT From F on the FE line draw a line 2%" 

long, and locate U. 
UV From U draw a line y^'' upward and 

parallel to the CF line, and locate V. 
VT Place the point of the chart marked neck 

curve and connect V and T by curved line. 

This line indicates the front neck line. 
XU From V below IJ draw a line 8" long 

and parallel to the AC line, and locate X. 
VW Place the point of the ruler or chart on 

V and draw a line 5i/." long, meeting the 

XX line at this point. This line indicates 

the front shoulder seam. 
LY From L on the LK line draw a line 8" 

long, and locate Y. This line indicates the 

chest measure. 
WYR Connect WY by a slightly curved line, 



MIDDY BLOUSE 



175 



and then place the chart with the arm curve 
on Y and the other end on LJ towards R. 
This line indicates the front armseye. 




Fig. (53. — Draft for Sleeve 



176 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Cutting Out the Pattern 

Cut out around the neck EN and the shoulder 
seam NQ, then all around the armseye, QORYW, 
the front shoulder seam WV, and the front 
neck VT. Then separate the pattern at 
RS. 

Draftinrj the Sleeve 

Cut a piece of paper 23'' long and 16'' wide, 

fold this through the center lengthwise, and 

mark the corners A, B, C, D. 

AB, the folded edge, represents the length of 
the sleeve and the fold of the material. 

AC represents % the width of the sleeve. 

CE From C measure down 4", or ^4 of the 
width of the sleeve, on the CD line, and 
locate E. 

AE Connect AE by a straight line. 

AI From A on the AC line, measure 4", or 
one-half of AC, and locate I. 

IJ From I draw a line I'^y^" long and parallel 
to the AB line, and locate J. This line in- 
dicates the highest point on the shoulder 
and the straight of the material. 

IK From I draw a line down i/o" on the IJ 
line, and locate K. 

FG From E on the EA line measure 2", and 
locate G. 



- MIDDY BLOUSE 177 

GH From G measure upward %" towards C, 

and locate H. 
AKHE Connect A and K, and H and E by a 

curved line. This forms the top or upper 

part of the sleeve. 
AF Measure down on the AB line 13Vi>"j ^ii^l 

locate F. This point indicates the elbow 

of the sleeve. 
FO From F draw a line parall(4 to the AC 

line, and locate 0. 
CL From C on the CD line measure down 

liy^^ or one-half of CD, and locate L. 
LD From L measure over 1", and locate 1). 
DFO Connect Ti with F by strai£>ht lines. 

DFO represents the pleat at the elbow of 

the sleeve. 
DE From 1) on the DB line draw a line V/^', 

and locate R. 
EDO Connect EDO by a curved line. Use the 

curve marked *' sleeve curve" of the chart. 

Then draw a straight line connecting 

and K. 
RS Measure upward from R %/', and locate S. 

This will shorten the inside seam of the 

sleeve. The dotted lines near N indicate 

the pleats to fit the sleeve to the cuff. ( See 

Fig. 63.) 
SB Connect S and B by a curved line. If a 

cuff is desired, deduct the width of the cuff 



178 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

from the sleeve (for example, 3'' long on 
the BA line), and locate N. 
SM From S draw a line W long on the SOE 
line, and locate M. This will form the cuff 
and will be deducted from the sleeve. 

Cutting the Pattern 

1. Cut along the AKHE line. 

2. Cut the inside seam, EDOS. 

3. Cut along the RB line, and if a cuff is de- 
sired, cut along the NM line. 

Draftivg the Collar 

1. Paste the shoulder seam NQ of the back 
of the pattern on the shoulder seam WV of the 
front. (See Fig. 64.) 

2. Take a piece of paper 22'' long and 12" 
wide, fold it through the center lengthwise, and 
mark the corners A, B, C, D. 

3. Place the paper with the folded edge to- 
ward the left hand. 

4. Take the pattern where the back and the 
front are pasted together and place it with the 
center back over the folded edge of the collar 
pattern. Place the line marked ^'bust line" on 
the lower cut edge of the folded paper. Pin the 
paper and the middy pattern together securely. 
IX From I measure 6" on the bust line, and 
locate X. 



MIDDY BLOUSE 



179 




0^ Shouldet- seam pasted toqefhet 



Bust Line 



II 

o: 
i 



Fig. 64. — Draft of Collar for Middy Blouse 



180 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Raise the neck line, E, %", and locate 0. 

OU Connect and U by a curved line. 

K Measure 8" from the front neck on the TH 
line, and locate K. This indicates the open- 
at the front. 

KTU Turn the point KTU over on to the 
pattern and crease this turn well. The 
crease UK indicates the opening in the 
front, and the point T turned over will form 
the revere for the under part of the collar. 

AZ From A on the AC line, measure 2i^", 
and locate Z. 

ZU Connect Z and IT by a straight line. This 
line indicates the inner edge of the collar. 
Take a tracing wlieel and trace along the OIIZ 

line and tlien along the curved UT2 line. This 

curved line indicates the seam for the under 

part of the coHar. 

Cutting Out the Collar Pattern (See Fig. 65). 

1. Take off the middy pattern. 

2. Cut out the neck line by following the 
tracing OU and continue the straight line from 
U to L. 

3. Unfold the pattern at the center, and cut 
througli the middk' from B to 0. 

4. On one piece, cut through the traced line 
OUT2. This will give one-half of the pattern 



MIDDY BLOUSE 



181 



for the lower part of the collar. Mark BO 
** center fold.'' 





u/^ 


"^ 










•'5 




1 






' ■ 


6- 








Fig. 65. — Cutting of Upper and Lower Farts of the Collar 



182 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



5. Cut the remaining long piece along the 
line OUL. This is the upper part of the collar. 
Mark OB on this piece *' center fold.'^ 




Fig. 66. — Pattern of Middy Placed on Material 44" Wide 




Fig. 66B. — Pattern of Middy Placed on Material 36" Wide 
A full uarment can be made from 2 yds. of material 



184 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Folding the Material for Cutting (See Figs. 
6()A, 66B). 
1. Take Indian liead (44" wide) and cut off 
one length of 25'' or 26''. 




Fio. 07. — Middy Blouse Partly Fi.nlsued 
A, Lower part of collar stitolied to middy; B, top part of 
collar stitched to lower collar: C, stitching Vs" from the edjae 
near the slit; D, the edges which extend from the upper part of 
the collar are joined in a plain seam; E, the edge is turned 
and the sides and bottom of the collar are stitched; F, pleat 
pinned near wrist ; G, cuff partly stitched to sleeve. 

2. On the selvage edge turn back 10". 
Crease it carefully. 



MIDDY BLOUSE 185 

3. Place the center back of the paper pattern 
on the fold of the material. At the neck, let 
Y2' of the material extend beyond the pattern. 

4. Take the other selvage and fold it to meet 
the first selvage. This will give a fold 12" 
wide. 

5. Take the pattern marked '* center front" 
and place it on the new fold. Let Y^' of the 
material extend beyond the pattern for the seam 
at the neck. 

6. Pin the parts of the pattern to the ma- 
terial carefully. 

Tracing J Cutting^ and Pressing the Seams 

1. Allow for a %'' seam all around the neck, 
shoulder, and armseye. 

2. Cut out the goods. 

3. Separate the front from the back by cut- 
ting along the selvage. 

4. Do not unpin the pattern. 

Creasing and Pressing the Seams (See Fig. 

74.) 

Do not remove the pattern from the material 
until all the seams are carefully turned back 
over the pattern and pressed back. To do this : 

1. See that the pattern is pinned very se- 
curely to the material. 

2. Turn over, all around the paper pattern, 
one layer only, of the material. Turn this 



186 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

around the neck, shoulder seam, armseye and 
the waistline. 

3. Crease the turn well exactly over the edge. 
Crease it first by hand and then press it with a 
hot iron. 

4. Now turn the middy wrong side out and 
crease the extending seam over so that it is 
exactly even with the first turned edge. 

Making 

1. Take the front piece of the blouse and lay 
it flat on the table with the right side up and 
shoulder seams extending. 

2. Take the back, lay the pressed shoulder 
seam so as to cover the pressed line of the front 
shoulder seam. 

3. Be sure that the points NV at the neck 
and the points QW near the armseye meet ex- 
actly. 

4. Put pins at right angles to the seam, one 
near the shoulder seam, one near the neck, one 
in the middle. Pin each shoulder seam and 
then, without basting, stitch very close to the 
turned edge. 

5. Turn the waist inside out and make a i/4" 
flat fell seam. 



MIDDY BLOUSE 187 

Cutting Out the Top Part of the Collar and the 

Sleeves 

1. Cut ofe one 22" length of the 44'' Indian 
head. 

2. Measure along the width 12" and pull a 
thread. Cut this piece off. This will give the 
piece for the upper part of the collar. 

3. Cut two paper sleeve patterns and place 
these so that they dove-tail each other. (See 
Fig. Q>Q B.) If this precaution is taken two 
sleeves may be cut without piecing. 

4. Cut out the sleeves. 

5. Around the upper part of each sleeve 
crease a %'' turn and press this well. 

6. Mark the center of each sleeve at the top 
and the bottom with ^a contrasting thread or a 
pin. 

Putting in the Sleeve 

The waist is stitched to the sleeve with a flat 
fell seam of the same width as the shoulder 
seam. 

1. Fold the middy with the edges of the 
underarm seam together and put a pin at the 
upper part of the shoulder. This point comes, 
ordinarily, %'' from the shoulder seam towards 
the front. 



188 GARMENTS FOR GTRLS 

2. Lay the sleeve flat on the table with the 
marked upper edge towards you. 

'A. Be sure that the arinseye is well pressed 
and lay the right side of tlie middy with the pin 
at the center shoukler to tlie pin at the center 
of the sleeve. 

4. At this point, ])in the middy and the 
sleeves together. 

5. Take the armseye of the middy in your 
hand. Start from the pin at the center and 
pin from the right to the left. Lay the middy 
over the sleeve so that the seam of the middy 
covers the crease pressed in the sleeve. 

6. As you follow the line of the sleeve stretch 
the middy a little. Put pins about 2" apart at 
right angles with the seam. 

7. When one side is pinned start again from 
the center point and repeat the process. 

8. Pin the two sleeves ; then, without basting, 
stitch very close to the edge for the shoulder 
seam. 

9. Turn the middy inside out and make a 
14'' flat fell seam. 

10. On account of the great curve of this 
seam, it is advisable to baste it. 

11. Make a second stitching on this seam. 
Inexperienced stitcliers will And it easier to get 
an even seam if they put the second stitching 
on the right side. 



MIDDY BLOUSE 189 

Adjusting the Sleeve to the Cuff 

The fullness of the sleeve at the wrist may be 
shirred in or pleated to fit the cuff. For be- 
ginners it is easier to shirr the fullness at the 
wrist. To do this: 




Fig. 68. — Fitting Under Arm and Side Seam of Middy 
A, Sleeve, under arm, and side seam pinned for fitting; B, 
collar ready for outside stiteliing 

1. Put a coarser thread than previously used 
-a No. 50 — on the machine. 

2. Make the stitch as long as possible. 

3. Make a loose lower or upper tension. 



190 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

4. Make two rows of stitching close to the 
end of the sleeve. 

5. Find the middle of the sleeve and put a 
pin at that point. 

6. Draw up the loose threads in each row 
of stitching to the size of the cuff which will be 
9'' or 10''. 

7. For the method of pleating the fullness of 
the sleeve, see Fig. 63 MN. 

Cuff 

The cuff on this middy will be closed and, 
therefore, must be large enough to slijj over the 
hand. (See Figs. 67 F, 67 (5.) 

Cut the cuff 10" by 6" and pin it to the sleeve. 
Do not stitch it until the waist has been fitted 
and the length of the sleeve and the size of the 
cuff is decided. 

Fitting 

It is advisable to fit the middy after the shoul- 
der seams are finished and the sleeves are 
stitched to the blouse. This is done in order to 
decide on the depth of the seam that can be 
taken in from the sleeves and the underarm 
seam. (See Fig. 68 A.) 

]. Pin the sleeve seams together. Begin 
from the seam at the sleeve and pin towards the 
wrist. 



MIDDY BLOUSE 191 

2. Pin the underarm seam together. 

3. Start again from the underarm seam and 
pin towards the hem. 

When both sides are pinned then try the 
middy on, adjust it well around the neck and 
shoulders and decide on the width of the cuff 
and the size of the hem at the bottom. 

Cutting Out the Lower Collar and the Cuff 

1. Cut off one length of 12'' of the 44'' In- 
dian head. 

2. Cut off one width of 12" and pull a thread. 
This will give the piece for the lower part of 
the collar. 

3. Cut off two pieces 6" by 10". This will 
give the pieces for the two cuffs. A piece 18" 
by 12" will be left. 

Cutfivf/ Out the Liniurj for tJie Collar 

1. Take the piece of material 12" by 12" cut 
out for the lower collar, and fold it lengthwise 
through the center. 

2. Place the pattern with the words "center 
front'' on the folded edge of the material and 
trace all along the neck line with a tracing 
wheel. Trace firmly so that the seam is very 
distinct on both sides. 

3. Cut out the neck. Leave only %" seam 
around the traced neck line. 



192 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

4. Mark the center fold with a contrasting 
thread. 

Cutting Out the Upper Part of the Collar 

1. Take the piece of material 22'' long and 
12" wide which was cut off the piece from the 
sleeve. 

2. Fold this through the center lengthwise 
and crease this fold well. 

3. Place the upper collar pattern marked 
*' center fold" on the fold and on the lower edge 
of the material. 

4. Pin the pattern securely to the material 
and trace firmly along the neck and the front 
line. 

5. Cut out the collar. Leave only a 14''' 
seam along the traced line. 

Sewing the Lining of the Collar to the Middy 

1. See that the edges of the collar are per- 
fectly straight. 

2. See that the neck line of the collar is well 
and evenly traced. Mark the center back with 
a contrasting thread. 

3. Leave only y^" seam around the neck of 
the middy and around the collar. 

4. Pin the center back and the right side of 
the blouse to the center back and the right side 
of the collar. 



MIDDY BLOUSE 193 

5. Starting from the center back toward the 
left side pin the collar to the middy, (a) See 
that the tracing line of collar and the middy 
meet exactly, (b) Be sure that the front edges 
of the collar and middy are perfectly even. 

6. When the left side is pinned, start from 
the center toward the right side and pin the 
collar and the middy together in as on the left 
side. 

7. Stitch the collar to the middy with a plain 
seam. 

8. Press the seam open with the thmiib and 
forefinger. 

9. On each side of the seam stitch the raw 
edges down very close to the stitching line. 

10. Trim off the raw edges close to the stitch- 
ing line. (See Fig. 67 A.) 

Sewing on the Top Part of the Collar (See 
Fig. 67). 

1. See that the edges are very even. Tt is 
advisable to pull a thread on each edge to be 
sure that the lines are perfectly straight. 

2. Put the center of the right side of the 
upper part of the collar on the center of the 
right side of the lining of the collar. See that 
the tracing around the neck of the top and the 
lining of the collar meet. 

3. Pin the lining to the upper part of the 



194 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

collar. Put pins along the center of the top 
part of the collar from the neck to the outer 
edge. 

4. Next pin the lower edges together. Start 
from the center and pin each side together. 

5. Pin one side of the lining to the upper 
part of the collar. Start at the corner of the 
collar and pin the collar to the middy. Put pins 
at right angles to the edge until the end of the 
slit is reached. 

6. Do the same thing at the other side of the 
collar. 

7. See that the warp and woof of the collar 
run in the same direction and that the 
upper as well as the lower side is perfectly 
smooth. 

8. Start at the end of the slit and stitch %'' 
from the slit and then ^/4'' from the edge all 
around the collar until opposite the starting 
point. Leave as small a seam as possible near 
the slit, just enough so that the material will 
not fray. A deep seam will make the middy 
pucker. 

9. Stitch the ends which extend from the 
side of the collar with a plain seam. Crease the 
seam well. Press very flat between the thumb 
and forefinger. 

10. Open the seam all around the collar and 
crease it well. 



MIDDY BLOUSE 195 

11. Turn the collar inside out. Crease the 
seam around the collar again as flat as possible 
and make square corners. If possible, press 
the collar with a hot iron. 

12. Next stitch the collar all around on the 
right side. Begin from the end of the slit and 
stitch all around to the opposite starting point. 
Stitch very close to the edge. 

Finishing the Collar on the Inside 

1. Turn the middy inside out. 

2. Pin the curve of the lining of the collar 
and the curve of the upper part of the collar 
together. 

3. Turn the raw edges under and stitch the 
collar to the middy, from shoulder seam to 
shoulder seam only. 

4. All around the side edges and the bottom 
of the collar turn the raw edges under and stitch 
close to the turned edge. Stitch the collar only. 
Do not stitch it to the middy. 

Putting on the Cuff 

1. The width of the cuff depends on the 
length of the sleeve. Ordinarily the width 
varies from 2'' to 3" when finished. 

2. For a closed cuff the size of the cuff de- 
pends upon the size of the hand. The cuff 
should slip over the hand easily when the seams 



196 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

are made. An average measure for a finished 
cuff is 2yy' by 9". 

3. Draw up the shirring thread of the sleeve 
to fit the cuff and sew the cuff by following the 
instructions given for putting on the band on 
the sewing apron. 

Stitching the Sleeve Seam and the Underarm 
Seam 

1. See that the edges of the seams of the 
armseye meet. 

2. See that the cuff is even in length and that 
the top edges meet. 

3. Stitch the sleeve and underarm seam. 
Make a %'' seam. 

4. Open the seam and crease it well. Cut 
off the raw edges and fell the back part of the 
middy over the front part. The width of the 
seam should match the armseye seam and the 
shoulder seam. 

Putting on the Pocket 

1. Prepare a pocket 3'' by 4'' and cut it to 
a point at the bottom. 

2. Measure approximately 3'' from the arms- 
eye and 6'' from the shoulder seam and stitch 
the pocket to the middy according to the di- 
rections given for stitching the pockets to the 
apron. 



MIDDY BLOUSE 



197 



3. For method of making a set-in pocket, 
see Fig. 69. 




YiG. G9. — Pocket Opening Bound with Bias Strips 

A, Bias pieces basted and stitched; B, bias piece pulled tluougli 

slit; C, bias piece finished with arrow head 



198 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

Eyelet 

1. Measure up from the end of the slit 1/2"- 
Measure over %'' and make a dot. This indi- 
cates the place for the first eyelet. 

2. Measure up 11/2''. This indicates the 
place for the second eyelet. 

3. Mark the third and last eyelet 1%'' from 
the second one. 




Fig. 70. — Eyelets 

A, Eyelet made with the overhand stitch ; B, eyelet made with 
the blanket stitch 

4. Mark the eyelets on the opposite side in 
the same way. For making the eyelets, see Fig. 
70. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Draft the pattern. 

2. Place the pattern on the material. 

3. Cut out the middy. 

4. Stitch the two shoulder seams. 

5. Stitch the middy to the sleeves. 



MIDDY BLOUSE 199 

6. Sew on the lower part of the collar. 

7. Sew on the upper part of the collar. 

8. Pin the underarm seams of middy and sleeve 
together. 

9. Prepare the cuff. 

10. Gather the sleeve. 

11. Pin the cuff to the sleeve. 

12. Try on the middy and adjust the width around 
the bust and the hips, adjust the length of the 
sleeves, and decide on the width of the hem. 

13. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve. 

14. Make underarm and side seam. 

15. Hem the bottom. 

16. Prepare and pin on the pocket. 

17. Make the eyelets. 

18. Press the garment. 

19. Compute the cost and compare the middy with 
a ready-made one. 

20. Figure out the time. 

QUESTIONS 

1. What are the required measurements for a 
middy ? 

2. How are these obtained? 

3. How was the pattern drafted? 

4. Name suitable materials that may be used for 
a middy. 

5. How is the pattern placed on the material? 

6. Name the short cuts that may be used in the 
making of the middy. 

7. What is characteristic of a well-fitting middy? 



CHAPTER XV 

SHIKT WAIST 

Shirt waists are made of a great many differ- 
ent materials. They may be made ot* silk, wool, 
cotton or linen. The material should be chosen 
with regard to its nse and suitability. The 
main factors to be considered in buying shirt 
waist material for everyday wear are ease in 
laundering and durability. 

Beqmred Material 

One and one-half yards of material 32" 
or 36'' wide will make a shirt waist for 
the average girl. (See Fig. 73 for 
placing the pattern on the material.) 

Standard Measuremeyits 

Length of back 15'', bust 38". 

From these measurements, according to in- 
structions given in Chapter XIV, the following 
measurements are obtained: 

Length of back 15", width of back 13"+ 1" 

= 14", underarm seam 1^2% length of front 

1514", width across the chest 15", bust 38", neck 

13", waist 26", length of the sleeve — elbow 

200 



SHIRT WAIST 201 

length 13''— total length 22I/2". For the taking 
of measurements see Fig. 5. 



Fig. 71. — Shirt Waist Made out of One and One-Half 

Yards of Material 

The skirt is described on page 144, Fig. 51 

Drafting the Pattern 

Cut a piece of paper 22" long and 20'' wide. 
Mark the corners A, B, C, D. 
AB represents the length of the waist and the 

center back. 
AC represents one-half of the front and back 

widths of the waist. 



202 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



CD represents the center front. 

AE From A measure V on the AB line, and 

locate E. 
EF From E draw a line parallel to the AC 
A \ c 




Fig. 72. — Draft for Shirt Waist 

line, and locate F on the CD line. Mark 
this line * ^ neck line. ' ' 
EG From E measure 15" down on the AB 
line and locate G. 



SHIRT WAIST 203 

GH From G draw a line parallel to the AC 

line, and locate H on the CD line. Mark 

this line "back waistline." 
EI From E measure 71/2" on the AB line, and 

locate I. 
IJ From I draw a line parallel to the AC line, 

and locate J on the CD line. Mark this 

line "bust line." 
EK From p] measure 3%/' on the AB line, 

and locate K. 
KL Draw a line from K parallel to the AC 

line, and locate L on the CD line. Mark 

this line "chest line." 

Drafting the Back 

EM From E measure 2y^'' on the EF line, 

and locate M. 
MN From M draw a line %" ^ong and parallel 

to EA, and locate N. 
EN Connect E and N by a curved line. This 

will form the back neck line. 
KO From K draw a line 7'' long on the chest 

line, and locate 0. 
OP From draw a line 2%/' long and parallel 

to the KE line, and locate P. 
PQ From P draw a line 1/2" long and parallel 

to the EF line, and locate Q. This will 

form the curve of the armseye near the 

shoulder seam. 



204 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

QN Connect Q and N with a straight line. 

This will form the shoulder seam. 
QO Connect Q and with a slightly curved 

line. This will form part of the armseye. 
IR From I on the bust line measure 9", or 

one-fourth of the bust measure, and locate 

R. 
RO Connect R and by a curved line. Use 

the curve marked ' ' arm curve ' ' in the chart 

in order to have a perfect curve. 
GS From G measure 8'' on the waistline, and 

locate S. 
SR Connect R and S with a straight line. 

This line indicates the underarm seam. 

Drafting the Front 

FT From F measure 21/2" on the CD line, and 
locate T. 

FU From F measure 21/2" on the neck line, 
and locate U. 

UV From U draw a line y-/' long upward and 
parallel to the FC line, and locate V. 

VUT Connect VUT with a curved line. Use 
the curve of the chart marked ''neck 
curve." This line indicates the front of 
the neck. Measure down 1" from U on the 
CD line, and locate X. Starting from be- 
low U draw a line about 6" long, parallel 
to the AC line, and locate 2X. 



SHIRT WAIST 205 

VW Place the point of the chart beginning 

with V on V and draw a line the length of 

the back shoulder seam or 5^4". Let the 

51/4'' meet the horizontal line X, and locate 

W. 
LY From L draw a line 71/2" long on the chest 

line, and locate Y. 
WY Connect W and Y with a slightly curved 

line. 
YE. Place the chart with the ''arm curve ^' on 

Y and let the point rest on the bust line. 

Draw the arm curve. 
TZ From T measure 151/2" on the CD line, or 

the length of the front, and locate Z. 
Z^ Measure 6" and locate Z^. 
SZ^ Place the sleeve curve of the chart on S 

and connect S and Z^ with a curved line. 
For a close fitting shoulder seam make the 
front shoulder seam 14'' shorter than the back 
and stretch it on the back seam. Be sure that 
V and N and Q and W meet. Curve the shoul- 
der seams at the middle. A, 14''. 

Cutting Out the Pattern 

Cut the pattern out along the back neck line 
EN, the shoulder seam NQ, around the armseye 
QRYW, the front shoulder seam WV, and the 
front neck VUT. Cut around the waistline 
GSZ^ and Z. Separate the pattern at RS. 



206 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



7LLAff 



SlPCVE 




COLLAI^ 



Fig. 73, — Pattern of Shirt Waist Placed on Material 

36" Wide 



SHIRT WAIST 207 

Parts of the Shirt Waist 

1 back, 2 fronts, 2 sleeves, 2 cuffs, 1 collar. 

Placing the Pattern on the Material (See Fig. 
73.) 

There are no seams allowed on the pattern. 
The edge of the pattern, as in the middy, is the 
line where the seams are to be joined. This in- 
dicates the stitching line. 

Allow %" for all seams. Do not trim the 
edges on the two fronts until the shirt waist 
has been tried on and until the style of the collar 
and the closing of the front have been decided 
upon. 

Creasing and Pressing the Seams 

Do not remove the paper pattern from the ma- 
terial until all of the edges are turned back over 
the pattern. 

1. Pin the pattern securely to the material. 

2. Fold one layer of the material over the 
paper pattern at the neck, the shoulder seams, 
the underarm seams, the armseye, and the waist- 
line. Turn over only one layer of the material. 
Crease this well over the edges. Crease it first 
by hand and then press it with a hot iron. (See 
Fig. 74.) 

3. On the opposite side crease the extending 



208 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

seams back so that the two creased edges are 
exactly even. Press with a hot iron. 

4. In washable material crease and press the 
center front. In silk or woolen material mark 




Fig. 74. — Shirt Waist Pattern Pinned to Material 

A, Seams creased over the pattern : B, arm seam notched to fit 

the pattern 

the center front with a contrasting basting 
thread or with tailor's chalk. 



SHIRT WAIST 209 

5. Turn back and crease a %" turn around 
the top of each sleeve. 

Making 

Shoulder Seam 

1. Take the front and the back and lay the 
right side of the pressed back shoulder seams 
directly over the right side of the pressed front 
shoulder seams, letting the front seams extend. 

2. Be sure that the points at the neck NV 
and the points near the armseye Q and W ex- 
actly meet. Put pins at right angles to the 
seam at these points and a pin in the center of 
the shoulder seam. Stitch close to the edge 
without basting. 

3. Turn the waist inside out and make a flat 
fell seam. This seam varies in width accord- 
ing to the type of shirt waist. For an average 
shirt waist 14'' seam is the accepted width. If 
the material does not fray and one is in a hurry 
a second stitching may be made on the right 
side 1/4'' from the first without turning the edge 
under on the inside. This will give a quicker 
and an equally satisfactory finish. 

Putting in the Sleeve 

The sleeve may be sewed with: 
1. A flat fell similar to the shoulder seam 
of the middy. For this method see Fig. 67 A. 



210 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

2. A French seam. 

3. A French fell. 

Pinning the Band to the Waist 

1. Pin the center of the back of the waist to 
the point marked the center back of the waist 
band. 

2. Pin each side seam to the corresponding 
^Mjalance point," marked on each side of the 
center of the hand. 

3. Pin each center front to each end of the 
band. 

4. Draw up the basting thread around the 
waistline to fit the band. 

5. Fasten the ends of the basting thread 
around the pins at each front. 

6. Adjust the fullness at the waist to the 
band. See that most of the fullness comes to- 
ward the center of the front. On each side of 
the underarm seam for IV2" there should be no 
fullness. 

7. Adjust the fullness in the back. See that 
most of the fullness is in the center of the back 
and that the fullness is evenly divided. 

8. Pin the fullness in place. 

Fitting the Shirt Waist 

1. Try on the shirt waist and pin together 
carefully the ends of the band with the lines 
indicating the waist measure. (See P^ig. 76 A.) 



SHIRT WAIST 211 

2. Pin the line which marks the center front 
of the right side to the line which marks the 
center front of the left side. Be sure to have 
the edges even at the neck. Put three or four 
pins along the front. 




Fig. 75. — Shirt Waist Prepared for Fitting 
A, One-quarter of waist minus three-quarter inch ; B, "bal- 
ance point." Underarm seam of waist and side seam of skirt 
meet at this point; C, yoke marked and pinned to waist. 



3. Adjust the shoulder seams. See that the 
sleeve hangs straight over the arm. Adjust the 



212 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

length of the sleeve. Decide on the width of the 
cufP. 

4. Examine the underarm seam. See that 
the waistline and the band are properly 
placed. 




Fig. 76. — Shirt Waist Prepared for Fitting 
(Front view.) 
A, One-quarter of waist measure plus %"; B, "balance 
point"; C, collar turned under; D, connecting points of yoke 
and waist. 

5. Examine the neck. See that the neck line 
is well rounded and well marked. There should 



SHIRT WAIST 213 

not be any points at the end of the shoulder 
seams. 

6. Decide upon the front closing. 

7. Decide upon the type of collar. 

Making the Waist 

After the waist has been examined and any 
necessary alterations have been made sew the 
sleeves and underarm seams with a French 
seam. 

Front Closing 

1. Measure from the marked center front on 
the right side front 2" towards the front edge 
of the waist. Measure this on the top and on 
the bottom of the waist and draw a line with 
the dull end of a scissors. 

2. Fold and crease the line firmly on the 
right side along the center front line. 

3. Put the edge of the extending 2" on the 
center front line. 

4. Turn the raw edges under so that both 
edges are exactly even. 

5. Baste the two folds together 1/2" from the 
edge. 

Left Side Front 

Make a %" hem on the inside of the left side 
front and stitch this in the traced center front 
line. 



214 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

To Make Looped Buttonholes (See Fig. 71). 

1. Take 12'' of bias banding 1/2" wide and 
stitch the turned edges together and very close 
to the edge of the fold. 

2. Divide this into six pieces. 

3. Take one of these pieces and fold it with 
the cut ends together. 

4. Let the stitching line form the top line. 
Crease it well. 

5. Turn the center fold toward the inside. 
The stitching lines will meet and will form a 
point at the end. 

6. Run a basting thread near the cut edges 
so as to hold the seams together. 

7. Make the remaining buttonholes like the 
one just finished. 

Putting the Buttonholes on the Waist 

The buttonholes are put in between the front 
edges of the right side front in groups of three. 
Leave 14" between the buttonholes. The first 
group should come exactly below the opening 
of the neck of the collar. Place the second 
group 3" below the first group. The length 
of the buttonhole depends on the size of the 
button. 

Finishing the Bottom of the Shirt Waist 
The bottom of the shirt waist may be finished 



SHIRT WAIST 215 

with a rubber, by sewing the shirt waist into a 
band, by sewing a waist band to tlie shirt waist 
and having the bottom extend below. 

1. First Method 

(a) Make a ^'^ hem all around the bottom of 
the shirt waist. 

(b) Cut a rubber I/2" wide and 2" smaller 
than the waist measure. 

(c) Draw the rubber through the hem. 

(d) Fasten the ends of the rubber securely 
into the hem at each end. Stitch the ends and 
the rubber several times. 

(e) Find the center of the rubber and the 
center back of the waist and stitch through this 
place several times. 

2. Second MetJiod 

The band may be made out of anv remnants 
of muslin and may be pieced several times. The 
width is optional. The finished band may be 
r', 2", or 21/0'' wide. 

(a) Cut a band twice the desired v/idtli plus 
1/4" for turning under, and the length of the 
waist measure plus 4". 

(b) Prepare the band according to the di- 
rections given. 

(c) In sewing the band to the waist, follow 
the directions given for the sewing apron. 



216 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

3. Third Method 

(a) Use either a %'' webbing or make a band 
out of remnants. 

(b) Find the center and the balance point. 
Pin this band at the center back and at the 
marked waistline and sew the side seams. 

(c) Stitch all around the band. Stitch only 
as far as the side seams. 

(d) Leave the front of the waist loose. The 
waist will iron easier. 

(e) Put a buttonhole and a button at the ends 
of the band. 

Sewing on the Collar 

The collar may be cut after the same pattern 
as the lining of the collar of the middy. The 
directions given for sewing on the collar may 
be followed with a few exceptions. 

1. Stitch the collar to the waist and press 
the seam open. 

2. Cut off the raw edges of the seam very 
close to the edge. 

3. Take a 14" tine bias banding and pin this 
over the seam. 

4. Stitch the binding to the shirt waist. 
Stitch it close to each edge. 

5. Be careful to make neat corners. 

Cuffs 

The width of the cuff depends on the length 



SHIRT WAIST 217 

of the sleeve. It may be 2", 2%", or 3" wide. 
Sometimes a wide cuff may be turned over V\ 
thus forming a revere. The size of the cuff 
depends on the size of the hand. If the cuff is 
closed it should slip over the hand easily. 

Making the Cuff 

Cut the cuff twice the desired width, and the 
length plus the seams. 

1. Pin the right side of the cuff to the wrong 
side of the sleeve. Make the seam of the 
cuff and the seam of the sleeve one continuous 
seam. 

2. Pin the center of the cuff to the center of 
the sleeve. 

3. Draw up the gathering thread until the 
sleeve fits the cuff. 

4. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve and proceed 
as for sewing the band to the apron. 

Press the shirt waist. 

Mark the initials on the inside of the front of 
the belt. 

Compute the cost; the time. 

Fitting 

It is advisable to fit the waist after the shoul- 
der seams are finished and the sleeves are put 
in so as to determine the length of the sleeve and 
the width of the underarm seam. 



218 GAEMENTS FOE GIELS 

1. Pin the sleeve seam together. Start from 
the underarm seam. 

2. Pin each front and back of the waist to- 
gether. 

3. Eun a strong basting thread along the 
marked waistline. 

Preparing the Band 

1. Take a piece of muslin about V wide and 
several inches longer than the waist measure. 

2. From the center measure a distance equal 
to one-half of the waist measure. 

3. Put pins at each point thus measured. 

4. Fold the band so as to find the middle of 
these pieces and the center of the band, and put 
pins at these points. This will divide the band 
into four equal parts. 

5. From each of the center points marked by 
pins, measure '^^" toward the center back of the 
band. Mark these points with either a pencil 
or a contrasting thread. The band will meas- 
ure from the back toward the side % of the 
w^aist measure minus %", and the side toward 
the front will measure 14 the waist measure 
plus %". The point thus obtained is called the 
*' balance point/' and it is an important one, 
since all seams are laid with reference to it. 



SHIRT WAIST 219 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Draft the pattern. 

2. Cut out the pattern. 

3. Place and pin the pattern on the material. 

4. Press the seams of the back, the front, and the 
sleeves of the shirt waist over the paper pattern. 

5. Pin the shoulder seams together. 

6. Stitch the shoulder seams together. 

7. Pin the sleeves into the shirt waist. 

8. Stitch the sleeves into the shirt waist. 

9. Pin the seams of the sleeves and the underarm 
seams. 

10. Draw a strong shirring thread around the traced 
waistline. 

11. Prepare the waist band. 

12. Pin the waist band around the waistline. 

13. Draw up the shirring thread around the waist- 
line to fit the band. 

14. Try on the shirt waist. 

15. Pin the band together in front. 

16. Pin the front together. 

17. Adjust the shirt waist in its proper place and 
look for alterations. 

18. Make the necessary alterations. 

19. Decide how low the neck is to be cut. 

20. Decide on the front closing. 

21. Decide on the width of the cuffs. 

22. Make the front closing. 

23. Sew on the collar. 

24. Sew on the cuffs. 

25. Finish the waist around the bottom. 



220 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

26. Press the waist. 

27. Compute the cost. 

28. Figure out the time. 

QUESTIONS 

1. What are the required measurements for a shirt 
waist ? 

2. How are they taken? 

3. Is it always necessary to take all of these meas- 
urements ? 

4. How are the measurements of the shirt waist 
related to each other? 

5. What width of material cuts to best advantage 
for the shirt waist? 

6. What materials are best suited for shirt waists 
to be worn on different occasions? 

7. What is the average amount of material re- 
quired to make a shirt waist? 

8. Mention different ways that a shirt waist may 
be finislied around the neck, along the front, around 
the cuff, and at the bottom. 

9. What short cuts can be suggested in the mak- 
ing of a shirt waist? 

10. What seams are used in the shirt waist? 



CHAPTER XVI 

CORSET COVER 

The corset cover is a garment worn by every 
girl. Sometimes it is used in combination with 
a petticoat, sometimes in combination with a 
chemise or drawers. No matter how it is used, 




Fio 77— Corset Cover Fix- Fig. 78.— Corset Cover Fin- 
ished WITH A Band at the ished vi^ith a "Peplum" 
Waistline at the Waistline 

the shirtwaist pattern may always be used. The 
only difference is that the corset cover is cut out 
deeper around the back and the front neck. The 
shoulder seam in the corset cover near the arm- 

221 



222 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



hole is ordinarily from 1" to V/^^ wide. This 
width varies according to the trimming. 

The material which is used for undergar- 
ments such as muslin, longcloth, cambric, and 
nainsook, may be used for the corset cover. 
The choice of material and the trimming should 
depend upon the wear the garment will have. 




PXG. 79. — French Uxdeiiwf:ar with Valenciennes Laces 
AND Insertions 

For everyday wear, good strong muslin, long- 
cloth, or cambric are the most durable mate- 
rials. Use only such trimming as will outwear 
the material. Flimsy laces and ribbons should 
be worn only on rare occasions. (Fig. 79.) 

Adapting the Shirt Waist Pattern to the Corset 
Cover 

Do not cut up the shirt waist pattern. Cut 



CORSET COVER 



223 



out another one and on this one cut out the back 

and the front neck. (See Fig. 80.) 

WS Measure from W IV2" on the VVU line and 

locate S. 
LI From L on the LI line, measure 8^2'') and 

locate I. Connect S and 1 by a curved line 




Fig. 80. — Draft for Corset Cover 



and I and L by a straight line. Repeat the 
same in the back. 
QiS From Q on the QN line, measure V//% and 
locate S^. 



224 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

KI From K on the KO line, measure Sy^'% 
and locate I^. 

Connect I^ and S^ by a curved line and I^ 
and K by a straight line. 

Cut out the back and front neck along these 
lines. 

Ordinarily the front is cut out T' lower than 
the back. 

Before cutting away the material, decide on 
the trimming and on the finish of the neck and 
the armseyes. 

The neck may be cut square or round. 

Parts of the Corset Cover 

Back piece, 2 front pieces, 1 belt. 

Required Material 

30'' of 27" material will make a corset 
cover for an average person, and a 
piece 15'' by 8" will be loft. The same 
length will be needed if 36" inaterial is 
used and there will be twice as much 
left. It is, therefore, more eccmomical 
to cut two corset covers, as one length 
of 50" will make 2 corset covers, or 
three, as 64" will make three corset 
covers. There are enough pieces from 
wliich the bands may be cut. 

Plachifj the Pattern on the Material (See Fig. 
81.) 



CORSET COVER 225 

Tracing the Pattern on the Material and Cut- 
ting the Corset Cover 

With the tracing wheel, trace all around each 
part of the pattern. Be sure to trace around 
the center front line. No seams are allowed 
on the pattern; therefore, allow 14/' seam all 
around except at the front. Here V to 2" must 
be allowed, according to the front closing. In 
cutting out two or more corset covers, pin the 
pieces for each garment together carefully. 

Making 

The fronts may be finished by making a plain 
%'' hem on both the right and the left side, a 
box pleat, or an invisible closing. 

The first method is so simple that it does not 
need any explanation. The second method is 
explained in the making of the shirt waist. The 
third method, on account of the transparent 
waists which are being worn at the present time, 
is preferred now. No button or buttonholes 
show in this method of closing. 

Making the Invisible Closing 

I. Bight Side Front 

1. Along the marked center front on the 
right side of the front piece, measure %" to- 
ward the front edge. 



226 



GARMENTS FOE GIRLS 




Fig. 81.— Corset Coveu Patteun. Three covers can be made 
from 03 inches of material 



CORSET COVER 227 

2. Draw a thread at this point. Fold the 
extending material towards the inside and 
crease the fold well. 

3. Turn a -^4" ^^^^^ on the left side and crease 
this well. 

4. Cut a piece of material 1'54" wide and the 
length of the front of the corset cover. 

5. Fold this piece through the center length- 
wise and crease it well. This is the piece 
(called the fly) which will be put under the hem. 
The buttonholes will be cut in this piece. 

6. Slip the cut edges of this piece under the 
hem of the front just turned. 

7. Let this piece extend 1/10" less than the 
width of tlie hem. It will be turned on to the 
hem and must not extend beyond it. 

8. Baste the fly and the hem to the corset 
cover. 

II. Left Side Front 

Turn the hem on the left side %'' narrower 
than the one on the right side. The right side 
overlaps the left side and no stitches of this 
hem should be visible. Crease, pin, or baste 
the front hems only. The stitching should be 
done after the corset cover has been fitted. 
Side Seam (French Seam) 

1. Pin the back to the front with the wrong 
sides together. 



228 GARl\rENTS FOR GIRLS 

2. Begin at the waistliiiG and make sure that 
the tracing indicating the back waistline and 
the tracing indicating the front waistline meet 
accurately. 

3. Then put a few pins at right angles to the 
seam. The tracing line of the front and hack 
armseye should also meet. Pin each side seam 
and then stitch the first seam by machine. The 
second will be stitched after fitting. Pin the 
shoulder seam together. Cut a gathering 
thread at the waistline. 

Preparing the Bmul for the Corset Cover 

1. Cut off a band 4" longer than the waist 
measure, the 4" to be divided as follows : 1" on 
each side to be turned under to reinforce the 
band at the button and the buttonhole, V to be 
allowed for shrinkage, and V for the lapping of 
the right over the left side. 

2". Fold the band end to end to find the cen- 
ter back. Mark this with a running stitch of 
contrasting thread. 

3. From the center back, on both sides, take 
one-fourth of the waist measure and from this 
subtract %''. This will locate the points for 
the underarm seams. Mark each of these points 
with contrasting thread. 

4. On each side of the center back mark one- 
half of the waist measure plus V\ This inch 



CORSET COVER 229 

is allowed for shrinkage and lapping. Mark 
these points also with a contrasthig thread. 

5. At each end turn under V allowed for 
reinforcing the fastenings. 

6. Pin the right side and the center back of 
the belt to the wrong side and the center back 
of the corset cover. Pin exactly at the traced 
waistline. 

7. Pin each marked side seam of the band 
to the nnderai'm seam of the corset cover. 

8. Pin each front to each end of the band. 
Be sure that the edges of the band and the front 
meet very accurately. 

9. Draw up the gathering thread around the 
waist to lit the band. 

10. On each side of the side seam leave a 
space of 1%'' without gathering. 

11. Arrange the gathers carefully. Leave 
more gathers at the center back and near each 
center front than at the sides. 

12. Baste the band to the corset cover se- 
curely. Follow the waistline tracing. (Fig. 
77.) 

Making 

After the front closing is made, the side seam 
stitched once, the shoulder seam j)ii^ii('^^ to- 
gether, and the band basted in its proper place, 
the corset cover should be fitted. Put every 



230 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

seam in its proper place and any mistakes will 
be quickly seen. 

1. First pin the corset cover together at the 
waistline. 

2. Then pin the fronts together as they 
should be when the garment is finished. 

3. See that the shoulder and underarm seams 
are in their proper places. 

4. The armseye should fit snugly under the 
arm. If it is too loose take in at the underarm 
seam; if it is too narrow, cut notches enough 
to make the arm comfortable ; but before making 
many alterations, examine the shoulder seam. 
This, as well as the underarm seam, helps to 
regulate the width of the armseye. 

5. The corset cover should not fit tight over 
the bust. 

6. The fullness can be regulated by the un- 
derarm and the front closing. If the garment 
should be too tight, the under part of the hem 
may be left out and a false hem may be added. 

Hold the trimming around the neck and the 
sleeve of the corset cover and decide how far 
neck and armseye may be cut out. The corset 
cover should fit snugly around the armseye, but 
it should not bind. 

7. After having decided upon all these 
points : 

(a) P^inish the front closing. 



CORSET COVER 231 

(b) Finish the underarm seam with a French 
seam. 

(c) Join the shoulder seams with a flat fell. 

(d) Stitch the band securely to the corset 
cover and open this seam well and then press it 
back on the band. 

(e) Make an even turn of %'' on the cut edge 
of the band and turn it over, the last stitching 
to be on the right side of the corset cover. 

(f) Overhand each edge of the band at the 
front. 

(g) Stitch the band down close to the turned 
edge and all around it. 

Fastenhifis 

1. Make one horizontal fan and barred but- 
tonhole in the band, ^fake the first buttonhole 
in the fly and directly under the trimming. 

2. Divide the right side front into three or 
four parts and cut the first buttonhole up and 
down, and near the trimming of the neck cut 
the other two or three buttonholes at equal dis- 
tances. 

Trimming of the Neck mid the Armseyes 

A great variety of trimmings may be used 
for corset covers but the aim should be to have 
the trimming durable as w^ell as pretty. Rib- 
bon in underwear should be used only on rare 



232 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

occasions, and not for daily wear. To draw in 
the surplus fullness around the neck, crocheted 
cords or tape may be used. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Prepare the right side front closing. 

2. Prepare the left side front closing. 

3. Make the underarm seam. Stitch the first 
seam for the French seam only. 

4. Make two rows of gathering threads around 
the bottom. 

5. Prepare the band. 

6. Pin the corset cover to the band. 

7. Pin the shoulder seam together, seam on the 
right side. 

8. Fit the corset cover and if there are to be any 
alterations, make them. Decide on the neck finish- 
ing and the cutting out of the neck. 

9. Stitch the shoulder seams. Make a flat felled 
seam. 

10. Finish the underarm seam. 

11. Stitch the band to the corset cover. 

12. Stitch the front closing. 

13. Finish each armseye and the neck. 

14. Cut the buttonholes. 

15. Sew on the buttons. 

16. Mark the initials. 



CORSET COVER 233 

QUESTIONS 

1. What pattern may be used in cutting out the 
corset cover? 

2. What changes are made in the pattern ? 

3. Name suitable materials that may be used for 
the corset cover. 

4. Name suitable trimming that may be used. 

5. What points are to be considered in selecting 
the material ? The trimming ? 

6. Mention different ways of finishing the top, the 
bottom, and the front closing. 

7. What seams are used in the making of the cor- 
set cover? 

8. What is the most economical way to cut out the 
corset cover? 



CHAPTER XVII 

EXVELOPE CHEMISE 

The envelope chemise is a garment which at 
the present time is well liked and much worn by 
young girls. It is a combination of corset cover 
and drawers. Muslin, longcloth, cotton crepe 
or seersucker is the material most commonly 
used for the chemise. For fine garments, nain- 
sook may also be used. (Figs. 82 and 83.) 

Required Material 

Two lengths of 36" material, measured 
from the shoulder to the knee, are re- 
quired to make this garment. 

Pattern 

The back of the shirt waist pattern is used 
in making the top of the envelope chemise. 

Folding the Material for Cutting (See Fig. 84). 

1. Take the two required lengths of the ma- 
terial and fold them through the center cross- 
wise and then lengthwise. Make the folds even 

234 



ENVELOPE CHEMISE 



235 



and pin the selvages together. Place the ma- 
terial in front of you with the folded edge on 
the left side, the selvage on the right side and 
the cut edges on the top. 




Fig. 82 




Fig. 8;1 — Back and Right 

Side ok Envelope 

Chemise 

A, Box pleat. B, Box^ 

plfat stitcho^d U/o" on each 

side of the pleat. 

Fig. 82. — Front of Envelope 
Chemise 
A, Fullness taken up with 
tucks. B, Reinforced front 
closing. 



2. Take the back of the shii't waist pattern 
and place it with the center of the back 3" 
from the folded edge so that the center back 
line G is parallel with the folded edge of the 
goods and 3" from that edge, and the center 



236 



GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 



of the neck line E is at the cut edge of the goods 
and 3" from the folded edge AB. The addi- 




FiG. 84. — Draft fob Envelope Chemise 



ENVELOPE CHEMISE 237 

tional 3'^ will allow for the necessary fullness. 

3. Pin the pattern securely to the cloth. 

4. This garment is cut out lower around the 
neck than the shirt waist. Therefore, on the 
shoulder seam, measure 2'' from the armseye 
toward the neck, and locate N'-. (See Fig. 84.) 

6. Prom E on the center back measure down 
3I/2'', and locate K. From K draw a line 3^4'' 
long and parallel to the bottom of the pattern, 
and locate Z. Connect Z and N by a curved 
line. This forms the curve of the back neck line. 
The front neck line is drawn 1" deeper than the 
back. (See K.Z,.) Connect Z, with N^. 

Extend the KZ line to the AB line and at a 
point V^ from the folded edge AB draw a line 3" 
long and parallel to the AB Ihie. This will in- 
dicate the place for the first tuck. Draw three 
additional lines parallel to this first line, and 
14'' apart, to indicate the remaining tucks in 
this group. 

From the last line in this group, measure 1" 
and draw a line 3" long parallel to the first 
group of lines. Then draw four more lines 
parallel to this first line and y^" apart for the 
second group of tucks. (See Fig. 84 Kg Zo.) 

Bottom of Chemise (See Fig. 84). 

The bottom of this chemise may be finished in 
different ways. The model here presented is 



238 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

very simple in construction. It may be made 
with or without the center scallop FJ. 

Preparing fJie Material for the Scallops 

1. Take the lower folded edge and fold it 
lengthwise in the middle. Crease and press 
this well. This fold is indicated by FJ (Fig. 
84). 

2. Then fold it again. Press this also. 
This will divide the width of the material BI) 
into four parts, and is indicated by I and l., 
(Fig. 84). From the lower folded edge D, 
measure upward on the selvage 2", and locate 
H. Connect H with the waist line S by a 
straight line. 

From the lower folded edge B measure 4" 
upward on the folded AB line, and locate L. 

Draw a 2" square in the lower left-hand cor- 
ner and locate BM and NO, connecting the dif- 
ferent points at the bottom. 

Connect LN by a straight line and NIP^ loH 
by curved lines. For these curves use the 
curves marked ''neck curves" on the chart. 

Tracinff 

With the tracing wheel trace: 

1. Around the extended neck line KoZo. 

2. Trace closely around the edge of the pat- 
tern marked ''back of shirt waist" as far as 



ENVELOPE CHEMISE 239 

the center waistline. Then trace the waistline 
and extend the line to the folded edge of the 
goods. 

1). At the bottom trace the front curve LNI. 

4. Trace the tucks very plainly, so that 
they may be seen on both thicknesses of the 
cloth. 

Cutting Out the Material 

1. Cut out the upper extended neck curve 
KZN-\ 

2. The shoulder seam N.Q and the armseye 
QOR. 

3. The side seam RSH. 

4. Around the bottom HT<,F, as far as T. 

5. At this point cut out the upper layer only, 
NL. Take off the upper part of the goods. 
This is the front. The longer piece with the 
folded corners which remains forms the back 
part of the chemise. 

6. From this piece cut out, in the center of 
the back from the extended waistline to the 
neck, the 3'' allowed for fullness. This will 
give the needed fullness in the seat and less full- 
ness in the back of the waist. 

Makiuf) 

1. Stitch the tucks in the front. 

2. Make French seams for the side seams, 



240 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

or, if the material is soft and firm, French fell 
seams may be used. This is a satisfactory 
seam if the material is l)oth thin and firm. 

3. Use the same type of seam for the back 
seam. 

4. The center of the fokl of the material 
meets the seam at tlie back so that it forms a 
box pleat IV2" 011 t'^di side of the center side 
of the seam. (See Fio-. S3 A, B.) 

5. Crease this pleat well on both sides and 
baste it to the garment. 

6. Take a piece of bias binding and pin this 
over the pleat. Turn the edges of the binding 
under on each side. 

7. Stitch the binding to the garment, fol- 
lowing the edge very closely. 

Reinforcing the Front 

Reinforce the point L at the center front with 
a double piece of material 2i/>" by 2" when fin- 
ished so that the buttonholes will not tear out 
so easily. To make it: 

1. Cut a piece of muslin 5yo" long and 2i/4" 
wide. 

2. Fold this through the middle crosswise. 

3. Stitch a plain seam on the two longer 
sides. 

4. Open these seams and turn this piece in- 
side out. 



ENVELOPE CHEMISE 241 

5. Crease it until it is even and flat, and fold 
it through the center lengthwise. 

6. Measure 1" on the crease from the folded 
edge and put a pin at that point. 

7. Put the right side of the garment with 
the point L directly on the pin in the piece al- 
ready prepared. 

8. Baste this piece carefully to the chemise. 
See that the warp and woof threads of the piece 
and the chemise run parallel. 

9. Make two rows of stitching, the first one 
very close to the edge, and the second Vs" away. 
(See Fig. 82 B.) 

Fitting the Garment 

Pin the shoulder seams together and try the 
garment on. See that it hangs perfectly 
straight in the front and in the back, and that 
the shoulder seams are in place. See that the 
garment fits snugly around the underarm and 
shoulder. Adjust the length and the width of 
the shoulder seam. This varies according to 
the type of trimming. 

Shoulder Seam 

A flat fell is used for the shoulder seam. 

Selecting the Trimming for Undergarments 
The neck, the armseye, and the bottom may 



242 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

be finished in many different ways. Tatting, 
crocheted hice, ready-made hice, or embroidery 
beading and edging may be used. 

The essential point to decide upon is the dur- 
ability of the trimming. It must be strong 
enough to outwear the garment. Flimsy, cheap 
Valenciennes laces should never be used on un- 
dergarments which are intended for daily wear. 
If the selection of the trimming for the under- 
garment is not carefully made you may have : 

1. To spend a great deal of time each week 
in keeping your undergarments pressed. W 
you do not do it, some one will have to do it 
for you. 

2. If you have your undergarments laun- 
dered outside the home, you will have to pay 
more for laundering. The life of the garment 
is shortened, and after a few washings you will 
have to mend them and soon replace the worn- 
out lace. You will incur not only double outlay 
of money but also a great loss of time. 

The best trimming for undergarments for 
daily wear is handmade, either tatting or cro- 
cheted edging. No cotton coarser than No. 70 
should be used and the crocheting should be done 
tightly. If you do not have the time to make 
your own trimming, then buy either a good 
strong embroidery, on which the scallops are 
firm, or select a good Cluny or torchon lace made 



ENVELOPE CHEMISE 243 

either of linen or cotton. Avoid Valenciennes; 
use this only on very fine materials. 

Finishing the Neck, the Armseye, and the Bot- 
tom 
I. First Method 

1. Alake an even %'' turn from the right to 
the inside of the garment, all around the neck, 
the armseye, and the bottom of the garment. 
Crease this well and press with a hot iron. 

2. Take a 1/4" bias binding and baste it all 
around the turned edge, using a fine needle and 
thread. Do not use a wide binding or there 
will be trouble with the curves. Stretch either 
the lower or the upper edge of the binding to 
fit the curves. Miter the corners. Be careful 
to see that the edges are even. Begin at the 
middle of the back and at the underarm seam. 

3. Stitch close to the inner edge of the bind- 
ing or finish this on the right side with a feather- 
stitch. 

4. (a) Pin the lace to the garment. Put the 
pins at right angles to the edge. 

(b) Hold the lace towards you and sew from 
the right to the left. 

(c) Sew the lace on with an overhand stitch. 

(d) Make a short, shallow stitch. Take only 
one thread of the turned edges and sew this to 
the lace. 



244 GAEMENTS FOR GIRLS 

(e) Be careful when tuniing around the 
curves to full the lace on and allow for the 
curves. 

(f ) When turning the corners hold the lace 
in. Be sure to have as little fullness as pos- 
sible around the corners. 

(g) If the edge of the lace is smooth, the 
lace may be slipped inside, between the binding 
and the garment and then the three parts, lace, 
garment, and binding may be stitched together 
in one stitching. 

II. Second MetJiod 

This method saves binding. 

1. Put the right side of the lace to the right 
side of the garment with the selvage of the 
lace toward the raw edge. 

2. Place and pin, and at the corners baste 
the lace i/t" from the cut edges of the neck and 
armseye and around the l)ottom. 

3. Stitch the lace to the garment, stitching 
very close to the edge of the lace. 

4. Fold the lace back over the seam you have 
just stitched and crease the material firmly. 

5. Turn the garment inside out. At the 
edge of the lace, turn as narrow a hem as pos- 
sible (i/s" if the material will allow it). Cut 
away any surplus material. 

6. Crease and pin this hem well. It is ad- 



ENVELOPE CPIEMTSE 245 

visable to baste it around the corners. Stitch 
very close to the edge of the turn. 

7. Join the ends of the trimming with an 
invisible and strong finish. 

Fig. H6 illustrates the sewing on of laces and 
the s]^acing of tucks that may be used in the 
finishing of undergarments. 




Fig. 85. — Details of Quick Method of Sewing on Lace 

BY Machine 
A, Rijjht side of lace pnt on rijzht side of material: B. lace 
stitched ; ('. ed^fe of mntorial licmmed ; D, ri^iht side of finislied 
edire: E. edi>e hemmed by hand; F, lace sewed on with over- 
hand stitch. 

Making the Strap 

To allow for more room in the back of the 
chemise a strap may be added to the point L. 
This strap is made of two thicknesses of mate- 
rial and is 6" by 2" when finished. 

1. Cut a piece of muslin I2V2'' by 2i/^" and 
fold it crosswise. 



246 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

2. Make a plain seam on the long sides. 

3. Open the seam and turn it inside out. 

4. Finish the short open end. 

5. Fold through the center lengthwise and 
crease the fold. 

6. Put the back of the chemise with the point 




Fig. so. — French Underwear with Good Spacing of Tucks 

L on this center fold. Put it so that the edge of 
the strap meets the edges of the chemise. 

7. Baste it in place and then finish with two 
rows of stitching. 

Seu'Wfi fhe Sfrai) to the Garment 

1. Fold the strap through the center length- 
wise. Crease this well. On this crease meas- 
ure 2" from the end and put in a pin. 

2. Take the garment and put the right side 



ENVELOPE CHEMISE 247 

of the center back point L directly over the point 
marked by the pin. 

3. Adjust this exactly to the center of the 
point, and see that the lower edge of the strap 
meets evenly with the warp thread of the gar- 
ment. 

4. Baste the strap carefully to the garment, 
and then stitch very closely all round. The 
neatest way is to follow the stitching of the 
binding on the right side of the garment. 

5. For greater strength, make a second row 
of stitching '/s" from the first row. 

G. Be very careful to stitch square cor- 
ners. 

Buttons and Buttonholes 

On the fjiece stitched to reinforce the front, 
mark two buttonhok'S %" long and directly un- 
der the sti telling Vi" from the edge. As there 
are three thicknesses of material, it is best to 
stitch closely by machine with a very fine thread 
around the marked buttonhole before it is cut.' 
Then the material will not fray. Make two 
bars on each of the buttonholes. 

Button 

Select a very flat button, preferably a cloth 
lingerie button that fits snugly, but not too 
tight, in the buttonhole. Sew the l)uttoii on 



248 GARMENTS FOR GIRLS 

firmly with a No. 40 single thread and fasten 
the end of the thread with a few buttonhole 
stitches. 

Markiyig 

In the center front, 1" below the bhis binding, 
niai'k Your initials and embroider these with a 
satin stitch. 

Pressing 

Press and fold the garment. 
Compute the cost; the time. 

TEACHER'S DIRECTIONS TO PUPIL 

1. Fold the material for drafting the pattern. 

2. Pin the back of the shirt waist pattern to the 
cloth and draft the pattern. 

3. Trace tlie tucks. 

4. Cut out the envelope chemise. 

5. ^Take the tucks. 

6. Cut out the piece from the center of the back. 

7. Sew up the back seam. 

8. Sew up the side seams. 

9. Reinforce the center front at the bottom. 

10. Put on the trimming around the neck, the 
armseyes and the bottom. 

11. Prepare the strap. 

12. Sew on the straj). 

18. Make the buttonlioles. 

14. Sew on the l)uttons. 

15. Make the initial. 



ENVELOPE CHEMISE 249 

16. Press nnd fold the garment. 

17. Compute the cost. 

18. Figure out the time. 

QUESTIONS 

1. What materials may be used for making the 
envelope chemise ? 

2. What trimmings may be used? 

3. What pattern may be used to cut out the en- 
velope chemise? 

4. What changes are made in the pattern? 

5. What garment is replaced by the envelope 
chemise? 

6. What are the advantages and disadvantages of 
this garment? 

7. Name different ways that the envelope chemise 
may be finished at the top. At the bottom. 

8. What seams are used in makino* the garment? 



I 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 145 740 8 




